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Above top left 18th-century Bonawe Iron
Furnace Above Oban, overlooked by the
imposing McCaig’s Tower Above left Tower at
Inveraray Castle, home to the Duke of Argyll
Below left Popular attraction of Inveraray JailEAT AND DRINKINVERARAY
The George Hotel inexpensive
This popular seafront pub serves a wide
range of traditional and vegetarian
dishes. Look out for fresh mussels and
chips, Scottish steak pie or haggis.
Main Street East, PA32 8TT; 01499 302
111; http://www.thegeorgehotel.co.uk
OBAN
Oban Chocolate Company inexpensive
Relax into sofas and enjoy sea views at
this modern café for coffee, cakes and
ice cream – or hand-made chocolates.
34 Corran Esplanade, PA34 5PS; 01631
566 099; http://www.obanchocolate.co.uk;
closed Jan
Coast inexpensive–moderate
Contemporary restaurant in a former
bank, specializing in locally caught
seafood. Try Loch Linnhe langoustines.
102–104 George Street, PA34 5NT;
01631 569 900; http://www.coastoban.co.uk
Room 9 Restaurant moderate
Visit this waterside restaurant for simple
sandwiches, or smoked salmon pâté and
beef with Stornoway black pudding.
9 Craigard Rd, PA34 5NP; 01631 564
200; closed Sun
Temple Seafood moderate
This small restaurant has great waterside
views and offers scallop chowder, lobster
and seafood platters. Booking essential.
Gallanach Rd, PA34 4LW; 01631 566
000; http://www.templeseafood.co.uk;
open Thu–Sun2 Cruachan Power Station
Dalmally, Argyll; PA33 1AN
Hidden deep inside Ben Cruachan,
this hydro-electric power station,
(Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov-Mar: open Mon–
Fri; closed Jan) runs on water fed from
a reservoir high on the mountain.
Tours take visitors on a bus into a vast
cavern in the heart of the mountain.
Seeing the workings of this mighty
structure feels like entering the world
of James Bond. After a visit, try a brisk
walk around the loch or to the top of
Ben Cruachan, for views of the dam.
ª Carry on A85, then turn right (signed
Brochroy), when road splits, bear right
to Bonawe Iron Furnace. Park on site.
DRIVE 23: The Wild West Coast of Scotland
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £503 Bonawe Iron Furnace
By Taynuilt, Argyll; PA35 1JQ
It is hard to imagine industry in this
tranquil spot by Loch Etive, but
Bonawe (Apr–Sep: open daily) was once
a flourishing iron furnace and what
remains is Britain’s best example of a
charcoal-fuelled ironworks. The
ironworks were built here in the 18th
century because of the vast supply of
wood from which charcoal could be
made. Bonawe produced large
numbers of cannonballs – some used
by Lord Nelson in his sea battles.
ª Return to the A85 and follow the
road to Oban and park on street.
4 Oban
Oban, Argyll; PA34
Attractive Oban is a bustling working
port, with fishing boats bobbing amid
the passenger ferries running to the
Hebridean islands. Overlooking the
town is McCaig’s Tower, a monument
resembling the Colosseum in Rome. It
was intended as a family memorial
and to provide work for local masons.
Started in 1897, it remained unfinished
when McCaig died in 1902. Climb up
for fine views to the islands.
Just outside town, on the A85, stand
the romantic ruins of Dunstaffnage
Castle (Apr–Sep: open daily; Oct–Mar: open
Sat–Wed), one of Scotland’s oldest stone
fortifications. It was built in the 13th
century to defend against marauding
Norsemen and was the stronghold of
the MacDougall lords until it fell to the
kings of Scotland. Centuries later, Flora
MacDonald was imprisoned here for
helping Bonnie Prince Charlie escape
after the Jacobite rebellion. She was
later removed to the Tower of London.
ª Head north on A85, turn right onto
A828 across the Connel Bridge. Follow
signs to Sea Life Sanctuary and car park.5 Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary
Barcaldine, Argyll; PA37 1SE
Situated on the shores of Loch Creran,
the Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary (open
daily; http://www.sealsanctuary.co.uk) rescues
seal pups found on the coast, nursing
them and rehabilitating them for
return to the wild – there are resident
seals to admire. The aquarium holds
sea creatures from starfish to stingrays
and there is an adventure playground
and woodland trail – it’s a fascinating
place for both adults and children.
ª Drive north on A828 along the coast,
take A82, signed Crianlarich. Turn right
for Glencoe Visitor Centre and car park.castle at the bottom has a café, where
walkers can refuel on tea and cakes.
ª Take the A819 north (signed for
Oban) then, after views of Kilchurn
Castle, turn left on A85 to reach
Cruachan Power Station and car park.