Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

241

Left to right Dunkeld: Neo-Gothic fountain at

the market cross; part of the ruined wing of

Dunkeld Cathedral; the impressive Dunkeld

Bridge, spanning the River Tay

DRIVE 24: The Heart of Scotland

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

EAT AND DRINK

PERTH

63 Tay Street moderate

There’s a contemporary feel to this fine

restaurant in the heart of Perth. Enjoy

risotto of Scottish lobster and scallops.

63 Tay Street, PH2 8NN; 01736 441 451;

http://www.63taystreet.com; closed Sun, Mon

MEIGLE

The Joinery Coffee Shop inexpensive

Lovely little café in a former joinery in

Meigle. Come for home-made soups,

freshly made panini and delicious cakes.

The Square, PH12 8RN; 01828 640717;

http://www.meiglecoffeeshop.co.uk

AROUND GLAMIS CASTLE

Castleton House Hotel moderate

This hotel, 10 minutes west of Glamis on

the A94, serves excellent roasts with

pork from its own Tamworth pigs and

venison from the Angus glens, in season.

Glamis, Angus DD8 1SJ; 01307 840

340; http://www.castletonglamis.co.uk

0 metres

0 yards

500

500

5 Dunkeld
Perthshire; PH8
This charming market town, with shops, restaurants and a 14th-century
cathedral makes a relaxing place to stop. It stands on one bank of the
River Tay, with the town of Birnam on the other. As well as excellent
salmon and trout fishing on the Tay, the nearby woods and hills offer
plenty of fine walks – ask about these activities in the Tourist Office.

A one-and-a-half-hour
walking tour
From the car park, walk down Bridge
St and over Dunkeld Bridge 1 across
the Tay. It was built in the early 19th
century by Thomas Telford, and cost
£15,000 (about £1m today). It’s a
magnificent structure over 200 m (685
ft) long. Keep to the left and, just over
the bridge, take the steps down to
the river – a sign says Birnam Walk.
Once under the bridge, go left to
follow a path which offers picturesque
views of Dunkeld Cathedral 2 , much
of which is in ruins, the result of
damage during the Reformation in
the 16th century.
The most scenic and enjoyable
option from here is to retrace the alk
route under the bridge, keeping the
river now on the left-hand side.
After crossing a small footbridge,
there’s a mighty sycamore tree and the
Birnam Oak 3 , its lower branches
propped up with posts, like an elderly
gentleman leaning on a stick. This is
the last survivor of Birnam Wood,
mentioned in Shakespeare’s Macbeth.
Follow this lovely tree-lined path
along the river to a blue painted
fishing hut 4 by the waters of the Tay.
Then return the same way along the
riverside but, just before reaching the
Birnam Oak, turn left up a set of steps.
Follow the path to the road in Birnam,
and cross over to visit the Beatrix
Potter Exhibition 5 (open daily). The
children’s author Beatrix Potter used to
holiday in Birnam as a child, and spent

hours exploring with a local naturalist,

Charles Macintosh. The wildlife and

countryside inspired Beatrix to create

such enduring characters as Peter

Rabbit and Mrs Tiggy Winkle, years

later. The exhibition includes a

Victorian schoolroom, information

panels and a Beatrix Potter Garden –

the museum is an ideal place for

young children. There’s also a café.

To return to Dunkeld, either walk

back along the river or follow Perth Rd

in Birnam to cross the bridge again.

ª Take A9 north, after Pitlochry turn

left, onto B8019, then right onto

B8079 to Killiecrankie. The Pass Visitor

Centre is clearly signposted.

%VOLFME

$BUIFESBM

#JSOBN

0BL

%VOLFME

#SJEHF

#FBUSJY
1PUUFS

&YIJCJUJPO

%VOLFME
BOE
#JSOBN

4UBUJPO

(^4) AY
'JTIJOH
)VU
#3/".
-55-&
%6/,&-%
%6/,&-%#
3 * % (
&








4 5 3&& 5
(^1) & (^35) )


(^30) "
%