Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

79


Above left Picturesque bridge at the centre of
Bourton-on-the-Water Above right Typical
Cotswold tea room in Moreton-in-Marsh

DRIVE 6: The Villages of the Cotswolds


5 Stow-on-the-Wold
Gloucestershire; GL54 1BN
Eight roads – one of them the Roman
Fosse Way – meet at this Cotswold
market town, crammed with antiques
shops, delicatessens and smart hotels.
Stop here for some window-shopping
and a bite to eat, with pubs and cafés
surrounding the huge main square –
once a busy market at the heart of the


Cotswold wool trade. Look out for the
stocks here, and the King’s Arms,
where Charles I spent a night in 1645
during the Civil War; the following
year, nearby St Edward’s Church was
used as a prison for defeated Royalist
troops after the Battle of Stow.
ª Continue north along the A429 for
Moreton-in-Marsh; park on the High St.

6 Moreton-in-Marsh
Gloucestershire; GL56 0AF
This lively Cotswold centre is known
for its Tuesday Market – the county’s
largest outdoor market. A short way
on the A44 towards Evesham there’s a
collection of interesting places to visit.
Sezincote is an onion-domed stately
home built in the Mughal Indian style
in 1810 (House: May–Sep: open Thu & Fri
pm, no children; Garden: Jan–Nov: open
Thu & Fri pm). Opposite is the Batsford
Arboretum, a fabulous collection of
exotic trees and shrubs (Feb–Nov: open
daily; Dec–Jan: closed Wed). And just next
door, families will enjoy watching the
gripping live demonstrations at the
excellent Cotswold Falconry Centre^
(mid-Feb–mid-Nov: open daily).
ª Take A429 north out of town, left
towards Batsford. Follow the signs to
Draycott, passing through the village,
then pass through Broad Campden. In
Chipping Campden, park on High St.

4 Bourton-on-the-Water
Gloucestershire; GL54 2AN
This classic, relaxing Cotswold village
nestles around an extended village
green and the gentle River Windrush,
and has something for everyone to
enjoy. The Cotswold Motoring
Museum and Toy Collection (open
daily) is a nostalgic wallow in the style
and technology of yesteryear; the
Model Railway Exhibition, has an
elaborate layout with more than 40
trains (Jun–Aug: open daily; Sep–Dec &
Feb–May: open Sat & Sun; Jan: limited
opening); the Model Village (open daily),
is a detailed 1: 9 replica of Bourton;
and the Cotswold Perfumery (open
daily; 01451 820 698; http://www.cotswold-
perfumery.co.uk) is a fascinating factory-
museum-shop that makes its scents
by hand; tours are available.
ª Rejoin A429, following signs for
Stow-on-the-Wold. Park in the town
square or on A429 north of the centre.


Left View of the countryside around
Stow-on-the-Wold

Cotswold Antiques
The Cotswolds are one of the most
rewarding areas for shopping for
antiques, though don’t expect to find
many bargains. The main centres are
Stow-on-the-Wold, Moreton-in-Marsh,
Chipping Campden and Broadway,
but it’s always worth looking in smaller
places, and look out for antiques fairs –
local tourist offices should have a list.

SHOPPING FOR LOCAL CHEESE
Cotswold cheeses are rightly renowned.
In Stow-on-the-Wold pack a picnic
from the cheeses, breads, pâtés and
pies at Maby’s (Digbeth St, GL54 1BN;
01451 870 071; http://www.mabys.co.uk). For
more than 50 cheeses (including
Stinking Bishop) and other local
specialities in Moreton-in-Marsh, try
the Cotswold Cheese Company (High
St, GL56 0AH; 01608 652 862; http://www.
cotswoldcheesecompany.co.uk).

EAT AND DRINK

CIRENCESTER
Harry Hare’s moderate
Friendly, charming brasserie serving
snacks or full meals such as belly of pork,
Barbary duck and Gorgonzola risotto.
3 Gosditch St, GL7 2AG; 01285 652 375;
http://www.harryhares.co.uk
CHEDWORTH ROMAN VILLA
Seven Tuns moderate
This traditional pub serves snacks and
upmarket meals next to a warming fire
or in the patio-garden. Queen St,
Chedworth, GL54 4AE; 01285 720 242

STOW-ON-THE-WOLD
Digbeths inexpensive
Inviting café with stone floors and a
delectable array of cakes and snacks.
Digbeth St, GL54 1BN; 01451 831 609
The Old Butcher’s moderate
This highly rated brasserie serves quality
modern British fare such as local grouse,
shin of veal and lemon posset.
7 Park St, GL54 1AQ; 01451 831 700;
http://www.theoldbutchers.com
MORETON-IN-MARSH
Tilly’s inexpensive
Breakfasts and sweet and savoury snacks
are served in this friendly tea room with
a courtyard for fair weather.
18–19 High St, GL56 0AF; 01386 701
043; open daytime only
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