related plantS Ageratina altissima
(syn. Eupatorium rugosum), white
snakeroot, has white blooms in fall
and is a very heavy seeder that should
be deadheaded. If the foliage declines,
cut the whole plant down after
flowering before seeds mature.
Ageratina altissima is best known by
the selection ‘Chocolate’, which
displays chocolate-brown foliage until
hot weather turns it green. It grows
3–4 ft. tall and prefers part shade.
White snakeroot is poisonous if
ingested.
Eutrochium dubium ‘Little Joe’
resembles E. maculatum ‘Gateway’, but
is a more compact Joe Pye weed that
matures around 3–5 ft. × 2–3 ft. It likes
a rich, moist soil that doesn’t dry out.
At the other end of the spectrum,
Eutrochium fistulosum towers over the
garden at 7 ft. or more. It also prefers
moist soil and can be pruned like E.
maculatum ‘Gateway’. Eutrochium
fistulosum ‘Carin’ is a strong-
performing dusky pink selection,
while ‘Bartered Bride’ shines in white.
Ferns
pruning Deciduous ferns die back to
the ground in late fall, but the fronds
often remain attached to the crown.
Compulsively neat gardeners may be
tempted to cut the brown leaves off at
this time and cart them away, and
while that is certainly an option, it’s
better for the plant to leave them alone
until the new fronds have unfurled.
Food stored in the old leaf bases will
help fuel new growth in spring, and the
ring of spent leaves acts as mulch to
help protect the plant from winter cold.
Evergreen ferns may have color all
winter, but as spring approaches, their
fronds, too, begin to look tattered and
worn. It is easiest to cut them back
then, while the new leaves are still
tightly curled, but again, it is better for
the plant to leave the old fronds
attached to the plant for as long as
possible. Doing so will turn a quick
chop into a time-consuming project of
hand pruning later, as the new fronds
will have intermingled with the old, so
the method chosen depends on the
energy of the gardener and the
practicality of the approach for the
situation. Ferns trimmed back early
won’t grow quite as large as those
hand-pruned later, but they won’t be
damaged by the procedure.
Occasional deadleafing may be
needed throughout the season to keep
plants looking shipshape. For appear-
ances you’ll probably want to remove
damaged fronds all the way to the base,
as fern fronds don’t branch or send out
new growth below the cut like most
other plants’ leafy stems will.
Some ferns’ new growth, or
fiddleheads, are edible and may be
harvested in early spring when they
are 2–3 in. tall. Ostrich fern (Matteuc-
cia struthiopteris) is the fern most often
used in this way. New shoots will
emerge to replace the ones taken,
though removing more than a few
fiddleheads from each plant may
weaken it.
other maintenance Ferns are
nearly universal in their fondness for
part shade and soil that is cool, rich,
moist, organic, and well-drained. It is a
misconception that ferns thrive in
deep shade; dappled shade is nearly
always better for plant growth,
including ferns. Some ferns will even
tolerate full sun in cool climates if
supplied with plenty of moisture,
though part shade is usually preferred.
Slightly acid soil is ideal for most ferns,
but a few are found naturally in
alkaline soil, and many aren’t too fussy
one way or the other. Mulch is
important; keeping the soil cool and
moist and providing a steady source of
organic matter makes the gardener’s
task easier.
Ferns aren’t heavy feeders, but
weak plants may be fortified with a
topdressing of compost or organic
fertilizer. If synthetic fertilizers are
used, they should be applied at half
the usual dosage and never allowed to
touch the crown.
Many ferns are sensitive to the oils
and soaps used in pesticides and these
should be avoided in their vicinity.