Bloomberg Businessweek USA - 09.03.2020

in central Italy; it starts with a sin-

gle loop of pasta rolled and pulled by

hand so it multiplies. There are now

classes at Sfoglina on how to make su

filindeu, a noodle typically reserved

for a handful of people on the island

of Sardinia and considered by some

to be the most mysterious and rare

pasta in the world. It is created from

thick cords of d

and pulled into 25

even thinner tha

name translates as

But you don’t ne

that. Just keep the

tip of your tongue.

Shiso so

Soba fanatics have

been eagerly await

Sarashina Horii, a

beloved Japanese c

open in New York t

noodles there are prized because

rom the core of

ds, which makes

y soft and delicate.

pearly white original

staurant will serve

ored ones made with

such as shiso, yuzu,

sesame.

alsamic

ibbons

like a 1980s power lunch

a new experiment from

Fortuna

Nicotra,

executiv

the ven

in New York. When

he added balsamic

to the dough, he

discovered that the

acidity created a

very silky type of

noodle. He serves

them simply with

butter and cheese

to complement the

sweet, tangy vinegar.

Lumache

The shell-shaped

lumache— Italian

for “snails”—does a

hero’s job of holding

sauce in its crevices.

At the buzzy new Da Toscana in New

York, Eataly alum Michael Toscana

makes his in-house and serves it

with roasted tomato sauce and

stracciatella cheese.

ate

errated

extended

corkscrew, also making it a superior

choice for catching sauces. Chef

Nick Accardi of New York’s Tavolino

creates a version with tumminia

flour, a stone-ground ancient grain

native to Sicily. It pairs especially well

with pesto.

Takasumen

These chewy ramen noodles are

thicker than conventional ones—

they look more like tagliatelle pasta

than an Asian noodle. At Sanpoutei

in New York, the strands are made

downstairs daily with flours

imported from Japan, then

aged to lower moisture

content so they can

better absorb

soup

broth.

March 9, 2020

Italian food and finery make

for good company

Pasta maker Pastificio

G. Di Martino has built a

reputation for a robust

wheaty taste and chew.

Although revered in

Italy—the 100-plus-year-

old company is valued at

more than $200 million—

it’s probably best known

abroad for a collaboration

with fashion duo Dolce &

Gabbana, which resulted

in brightly illustrated

packages and a Christmas

window takeover at Harrods

in London.

What started in 2017 as

a limited-edition product

that sounded like a joke—

clothing designers selling

gown-busting carbs—has

helped propel the company’s

expansion. This month,

Di Martino, which has a

handful of stores in Italy, will

open its first U.S. location,

La Devozione, in New York’s

Chelsea Market. The store

will stock all 126 of the

brand’s shapes, including

seven kinds of spaghetti in

a range of thicknesses. The

selection will also include

new-to-market designs such

as ribbon-shaped fresine

and tubular elicoidali, as

well as what founder and

Chief Executive Officer

Guiseppe Di Martino calls

“party shapes,” like the

spiral trottole. Eventually

the space will include a

48-seat pasta bar serving

broken candele tubes with

Neapolitan ragu as well

as its take on spaghetti

al pomodoro, also known

as la devozione—hence the

name. Bags of pasta start at

$5; D&G’s collectible tins go

for $160.

At Emmer & Rye in
Austin, chef Kevin
Fink experiments
with the aptly named
“pyramid” pasta

PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIN FRAZIER/COURTESY EMMER & RYE (EMMER & RYE). ERIC MEDSKER FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK (REZDORA). COURTESY PASTIFICIO G. DI MARTINO. SARAH ANNE WARD FOR BLOOMBERG BUSINESSWEEK (REMAINING)

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