National Geographic Traveller UK - 04.2020

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ON THE TRAIL

New Zealand

Many of the North Island’s natural wonders are

woven into local Maori culture. Discover some of the

best on a rural road trip. Words: Liz Dodd

1 WHAKAREWAREWA FOREST

In this labyrinth of soaring

Douglas irs, 100-year-old

redwoods and dense ferns,

100 miles of gnarly dirt tracks

promise some of the best

mountain biking in the world.

The most spectacular views

can be found on a treewalk

through the canopy, where

walkways and staircases weave

through the treetops to ofer

tantalising glimpses of the

mountains and lakes of Rotorua’s

volcanic landscape. treewalk.co.nz

4 MOUNT TARAWERA

The rusty-red ridges and peaks

of Mount Tarawera (‘burnt

spear’ in Maori) dominate the

landscape around Rotorua.

The volcano is surrounded by

thermal springs, waterfalls

and freshwater beaches. At its

base is the huge Lake Tarawera,

which ofers a disconcertingly

warm place to swim ater the

challenging hike to the crater at

the summit and the exhilarating

scree-slide back down.

2 PŌHUTU GEYSER

The Southern Hemisphere’s

largest active geyser is named

ater the Maori word for

‘explosion’ — a name it lives up

to twice an hour when it bubbles

to life and sends steamy water

arcing above the treeline. Pōhutu

sits within Te Puia, a centre for

Maori cultural experiences and a

park that’s famous for its boiling

mud pools and craggy lunar

landscape. The Maori at Te Puia

are the kaitiaki (guardians) of

New Zealand’s indigenous arts

and crats, such as bone carving.

5 WAI-O-TAPU

Named for the sacred waters

that bubble up from its terraces,

Wai-O-Tapu is a wonderland of

steaming, sulphuric pools and

turquoise geysers. Among its

most spectacular features are

the Champagne Pool, a thermal

pool fringed by rust-coloured

rocks, and the slick mud baths.

Although perfect for a pit stop,

the visitor centre and cofeeshop

seem almost out of place in this

smoky, otherworldly landscape.

waiotapu.co.nz

3 TAMAKI MAORI VILLAGE

If you’re keen to discover more

about Maori culture, spend the

night in a traditional Maori

whare moe (carved sleeping

house) within this lovingly

preserved village in the

shadow of Mount Tarawera.

Traditional Maori legends

are kept alive here by village

storytellers who spin tales

about the gods and monsters

that shaped the North Island.

tamakimaorivillage.co.nz

6 LAKE TAUPO
Wind your way down to the
magniicent Lake Taupo with its
hiking trails, word-class skiing
and vibrant ishing villages.
The Huka Falls — a series of
turbulent, turquoise waterslides
— may be the area’s most
photographed feature, but the
Tongariro Alpine Crossing is the
place to go for wonderful views of
Mount Ngauruhoe, better known
as Mount Doom from The Lord of
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE the Rings ilm trilogy.

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SMART TRAVELLER