homebuilding.co.uk 145The
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an issuetownhouses is nothing more than render
shaped to mimic expensive stone blocks.
The main restriction when building a
new extension is if you want to use the
latest through-coloured ‘monocouche’
renders because achieving a perfect match
with older sand/cement textures and
colours can be difficult.
Roof coverings
Sourcing new roof tiles for an extension
to match the ones on the main roof slopes
should in most cases be comparatively
straightforward. The fact that roofs are
viewed from some distance allows a bit
more leeway aesthetically than with walls,
so achieving a perfect match in every detail
is less of an issue. You can choose from a
broad range of available styles and sizes
of roof tiles, or even have replicas made
to order. But the first step is to identify
what you’ve got on your main roof, either
by getting hold of an existing tile and see
if there’s a brand name on the back, or
sending a photo to a tile manufacturer.
Most older tiles are made from clay,
with cheaper concrete varieties becoming
standard issue in the post-war period.
As with bricks, it’s sometimes possible
to source reclaimed tiles, although their
lifespan may be relatively short (some
roofers refuse to lay them due to quality
concerns) and there is a higher wastage
factor with reclaimed, too.
Probably the biggest challenge when
trying to match the look of an old roof is
the effect of weathering. It’s sometimes
claimed that a darkened patina can be
replicated on fresh tiles by spraying on
coatings of yoghurt or tomato fertiliser.
Or you could spruce up the old roof by
having it professionally pressure cleaned.
But a more reliable roofers’ trick is to
swap the new tiles with older existing ones
stripped from less visible roof slopes or
outbuildings, for example.
With roofs clad in slate, it should also
normally be possible for a new extension
to achieve a reasonable match. Slate is of
course a natural quarried stone, unlike
manufactured tiles, and roofing slates come
in multiple different sizes, thicknesses,
colours and textures. High quality Welsh
slate was widely used on Victorian and
Georgian roofs and can still be sourced
today, although less expensive imported
varieties (from Spain, for instance) can be
worth considering.
Artificial slates are cheaper still, but tend
to be smoother, shinier and more uniform
than the real thing, so aren’t usually
recommended where you need to match
existing natural slate.
You may also need to replicate decorative
detailing, for example many Victorian
roofs were splendidly bedecked with ornate
ridge tiles. These were manufactured in
a wide range of styles, so it can require
diligent research to track down suitably
matching new or reclaimed ones. Getting
the detailing right at the eaves is also
important. These shouldn’t be too hard
to match, either with patterned corbelled
brickwork, or timber fascias, perhaps
formed as timber ‘box’ eaves. The
exception is where you’ve got elaborate
Victorian and Edwardian ‘carved’
bargeboards on gable end walls which
won’t be cheap to replicate.Windows
One of the key determinants of whether a
building ‘looks right’ is the size, positioning
and style of the windows. So for a
matching new extension it’s important
to accurately emulate this, as well as the
detailing around the windows at the sills,
lintels and arches. Fortunately, there are
plenty of good quality replica windows on
the market, including traditional timber
box sashes with high-performance double-
glazed sealed units. With period properties
fitting new plastic windows or doors, even
in new extensions, is generally considered
inappropriate, although some look
convincingly ‘wood-like’ when new. More
challenging can be Art Deco style 1930s
steel windows, although excellent replicas
in aluminium are now available, some even
incorporating period-style curved glass.