The New York Times - USA (2020-10-25)

(Antfer) #1
8 D THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2020

TIME: 50 MINUTES, PLUS CHILLING
YIELD: 28 MEATBALLS, 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

½ cup grated Parmesan
cheese, more for serving, if
desired
½ cup panko or other plain
dried bread crumbs
¼ cup minced onion
¼ cup chopped chives or basil
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
or minced
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
½ teaspoon dried oregano
Pinch red-pepper flakes
(optional)
1½ pounds ground turkey, very
cold
1 large egg, beaten
3 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil, more as needed
3 cups marinara sauce, more
to taste


  1. In a large bowl, combine cheese,
    bread crumbs, onion, chives, garlic,
    salt, pepper, oregano and red-pepper
    flakes, if using, and mix well. Add
    turkey and egg and blend with your
    hands until well mixed. If you’ve got
    time, cover mixture and chill for an
    hour or up to 24 hours. These are
    easiest to form into balls while very
    cold. Form into 28 meatballs, each
    about 1¼ inches in diameter.

  2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a
    large sauté pan. When hot, add
    enough of the meatballs to fit in one
    layer without crowding, and brown
    on all sides, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer
    to a plate, add another tablespoon of
    oil to pan and brown another layer of
    meatballs, transferring them to the
    plate as they brown. Repeat until all
    meatballs are browned, adding more
    oil to the pan as needed.

  3. When meatballs are all browned,
    add marinara sauce to pan and bring
    to a simmer, scraping up the
    browned bits on the pan bottom.
    Return meatballs and their juices to
    pan, shake pan to cover the
    meatballs with sauce, and lower
    heat. Partly cover pan and simmer
    until the meatballs are cooked
    through, 15 to 20 minutes.

  4. Serve hot, drizzled with more olive
    oil and sprinkled with more cheese, if
    you like.


Turkey Meatballs in Tomato Sauce


TIME:  45 MINUTES
YIELD:  4 TO 6 SERVINGS


1 pound Asian eggplant (about
3 large; preferably Korean,
or Chinese or Japanese),
halved lengthwise and cut
into 4- to 5-inch segments
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons gochujang
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 packed teaspoons dark
brown sugar
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
½ cup olive oil
4 scallions, trimmed, cut into
3-inch segments, then very
thinly sliced lengthwise,
white and green parts
separated


  1. Place the eggplant in a colander
    set inside a large bowl or the sink.
    Sprinkle with the salt, toss to
    combine and let sit for 30 minutes to
    remove excess moisture.

  2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, add
    the gochujang, soy sauce, brown
    sugar, sesame oil and garlic. Whisk
    to combine, then set aside.

  3. To a large nonstick skillet, add the
    olive oil and the white parts of the
    scallions. Turn the heat to medium
    and fry the scallions, stirring often,
    until crispy and evenly browned,
    about 8 minutes. Using a slotted
    spoon, transfer the fried scallions
    onto a paper towel.

  4. Reserve a small handful of raw
    scallion greens for garnish, then fry
    the remaining scallion greens in the
    oil until crispy and lightly browned, 3
    to 5 minutes. Transfer fried scallion
    greens onto a paper towel.

  5. Remove the skillet from the heat
    and carefully pour the hot scallion oil
    into a glass container or measuring
    cup.

  6. After the 30 minutes of salting, dry
    the eggplant segments with a paper
    towel. Place the skillet over
    medium-high heat and add 2
    tablespoons of the reserved scallion
    oil.

  7. When the oil starts to shimmer
    and you see a wisp of smoke, add
    half the eggplant, cut sides down,
    and fry until browned and starting to
    soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip once and
    cook another minute on the other
    side. Transfer to a plate, add 2 more
    tablespoons of scallion oil back to
    the pan, and repeat to fry the second
    batch of eggplants. (If you are lucky
    enough to have any scallion oil left,
    use it to fry eggs or to dress a salad.)

  8. Finally, sauce the eggplants: Add
    the first batch of eggplants back to
    the pan alongside the second batch.
    Reduce the heat to medium-low and
    pour the reserved gochujang sauce
    over the eggplants. Toss until evenly
    coated and the gochujang starts to
    caramelize, about 1 minute.

  9. Plate the eggplants on a large
    platter and garnish with the fried
    scallions and the reserved raw
    scallion greens. Serve immediately.
    (To store for later, transfer to a
    resealable container and keep in the
    refrigerator for 3 to 5 days. This dish
    tastes great cold, straight out of the
    fridge, or at room temperature.)


Gochujang-Glazed Eggplant


With Fried Scallions


TIME: 45 MINUTES
YIELD: 4 SERVINGS

1 large Spanish onion, thinly
sliced
4 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
½ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus
more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper
4 cups seedless red
grapes (1¼ pounds),
destemmed
1 teaspoon fennel, coriander,
cumin or caraway seeds,
lightly crushed
1 pound any sausages, poked
all over with a fork
½ cup parsley, coarsely
chopped
2 tablespoons chopped chives
2 teaspoons rice vinegar or
sherry vinegar, plus more to
taste


  1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. On a
    large (13-by-18-inch) rimmed baking
    sheet, toss together onion slices, 2
    tablespoons oil, salt and pepper, and
    spread in an even layer. Roast for 8
    to 12 minutes, until the onions turn
    translucent and the thinnest pieces
    take on a pale gold color at the
    edges.

  2. After 10 minutes, add grapes,
    fennel seeds and the remaining 2
    tablespoons oil to pan with onions,
    and toss well. Spread in an even
    layer and nestle sausage into the
    mixture.

  3. Roast until sausage has browned,
    25 to 30 minutes, flipping sausage
    and tossing grapes and onions
    halfway through.

  4. Transfer sausages to a platter or to
    individual plates. Add parsley and
    chives to pan with grapes and onions
    and gently toss (this warms up and
    wilts the herbs). Use a slotted spoon
    to transfer grapes and onions to
    plates with the sausages.

  5. Add vinegar to rimmed baking
    sheet and scrape up any browned
    bits on the tray. Pour or drizzle pan
    juices over the grapes and sausages,
    taste, and sprinkle more salt or
    vinegar on top, if desired.


Roasted Sausages


With Grapes and Onions


ADAPTED FROM “MY TWO SOUTHS” BY
ASHA GOMEZ (RUNNING PRESS, 2016)
TIME: 50 MINUTES
YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

¼ cup ghee (or use unsalted
butter)
1 large yellow onion, peeled,
halved and thinly sliced
6 green cardamom pods,
crushed
3 whole star anise
1¼ teaspoons kosher salt,
divided
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons turmeric powder
1 pound boneless, skinless
chicken breasts, cut into
¾-inch pieces
2¼ cups low-sodium chicken
stock
1½ cups basmati rice
¼ cup chopped dried apricots
¼ cup sliced raw almonds,
toasted
¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves


  1. In a medium saucepan with a lid,
    melt ghee over medium-high heat.
    Add onions, cardamom, star anise
    and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring
    frequently, until onions are soft and a
    very deep golden brown, about 15
    minutes, lowering heat if necessary
    to keep from burning them. Add
    garlic and turmeric; cook and stir for
    1 to 2 minutes, or until very fragrant.
    Add chicken and cook for 4 minutes,
    stirring to coat chicken with the
    onion mixture.

  2. Add stock and remaining salt,
    increase the heat and bring to a boil.
    Add rice, stir and cover. Reduce heat
    to low and simmer until the rice has
    absorbed liquid, about 12 minutes.
    Remove from heat and let stand,
    covered, for 12 minutes. Remove lid
    and fluff rice with a fork.

  3. Transfer chicken and rice to a
    bowl, taking care to remove and
    discard cardamom pods and star
    anise. Garnish with apricots,
    almonds and cilantro. Serve at once.


Weeknight Fancy Chicken and Rice


TIME: 20 MINUTES
YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Kosher salt
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large head fennel (about 8
ounces), trimmed, cored and
thinly sliced
10 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
lengthwise
¾ teaspoon red-pepper flakes
1 pound whole-wheat
spaghetti
8 ounces burrata cheese
1 teaspoon flaky sea salt, such
as Maldon
Black pepper


  1. Bring a large pot of generously
    salted water to a boil. Crack the
    fennel seeds with the flat side of a
    large knife or the backside of a heavy
    skillet. Heat the oil, sliced fennel,
    garlic, fennel seeds and red-pepper
    flakes in a large skillet over low.
    Cook, stirring occasionally, until the
    garlic and fennel are softened and
    the oil is deeply flavored, 12 to 15
    minutes.

  2. Meanwhile, cook the pasta
    according to package directions until
    al dente. Drain and return pasta to
    pot. Reserve a few tablespoons of
    the seasoned oil and fennel mixture,
    then add the rest to the pot with the
    pasta and toss to coat.

  3. Divide the pasta and burrata
    among four shallow bowls. Spoon
    the remaining seasoned oil and
    fennel mixture over the top and
    season with flaky salt and black
    pepper to taste.


Spaghetti With Burrata and


Garlic-Chile Oil


Readers of NYT Cooking often share their feel-


ings about recipes. Recently, one from Los An-


geles wrote that she’s been leaning into sheet-


pan dinners, meals that “feel deluxe but are se-


cretly super easy” — gnocchi roasted with


squash, and creamy burrata with roasted cherry


tomatoes on crusty bread. But the best part of


the letter was her description of sitting down to


eat a shrimp dish she made for her partner:


“What a win to see his eyes light up and his


shoulders relax. For a minute, we were just two


regular people, in a regular world.” Here are five


dishes for the week. EMILY WEINSTEIN


Five Dishes


To Cook


This Week


CRAIG LEE FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

JOHNNY MILLER FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

DAVID MALOSH FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES. FOOD STYLIST: SIMON ANDREWS.

CHRISTOPHER SIMPSON FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES. FOOD STYLIST: SIMON ANDREWS.

DAVID MALOSH FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES. FOOD STYLIST: SIMON ANDREWS.

Feel free to experiment with
the garnish, adding dried
cranberries, hazelnuts, pine
nuts or your own favorites.

If you want to halve this
recipe, reduce the oven
temperature to 425 degrees;
otherwise the smaller
amount of food in the pan
might get too brown.

Try to use ground dark meat
turkey here if you can; it has
a deeper, richer flavor than
ground white meat.

Burrata for dinner is sort of a splurge but a delightfully fancy thing to
do. You could make this simple and sophisticated pasta recipe by Sarah
Copeland, or just grill or roast some vegetables to go with the burrata
and call it a day.

This delicious version of a pulao, or pilaf, from the chef Asha Gomez, is
an excellent way to use boneless, skinless breasts. The meat turns out
plush, the rice gently spiced and with a glorious hue.

Speaking of deluxe but supereasy: Make this sheet-pan recipe by Melis-
sa Clark with fat links of sweet Italian sausage from the butcher shop. A
few tablespoons of vinegar and the drippings from the sausage keep the
red grapes from being too sweet.

Inspired by the Korean dish gaji bokkeum, this recipe by Eric Kim is
salty, hot and sweet, and heaven with rice and greens for dinner. Start


the rice not long after you salt the eggplant.


A particularly satisfying iteration of a simple idea: a big pot of meatballs
in tomato sauce, for when the world weighs on you. Melissa Clark wrote
this recipe, and it’s just right. Go ahead and prep the meatballs in ad-
vance, and bake rather than fry them for less mess and time at the stove.

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