Encyclopedia of the Incas

leaves of the fique plant, Furcraea andina), or moccasins of deer or camelid
leather.
Men’s attire consisted of a three-quarter-length sleeveless tunic known as an
uncu, a breechcloth, a mantle, and a headband or other headgear. Uncus are one
of the most distinctive garments of Inca men’s costume and could be far more
elaborate than the wraparound dresses worn by women. While many men wore
plain-weave uncus, others, especially those donned by nobles and those that had
been received as a gift (a common diplomatic overture by the Inca or his agents
to the curacas, or headmen, of newly conquered peoples), could be quite
exquisite. Many are of finely woven tapestry and the design repertory is so
standardized that some scholars believe it may denote status, profession, or place
of origin. Indeed, one classic Inca uncu design, a black and white checkerboard
motif with a red yoke, is believed to have been worn by warriors. The tapestry
designs usually take the form of small tapestry squares, known generically as
tocapu. Many uncus, even plain-weave ones, have tocapu-decorated waistbands,
another distinguishing feature. The standardized proportions, size, and finishing
details are other distinctive traits.
Over their shoulders men wore mantles known as yacolla, which they wore
loose or tied under the chin or at the shoulder. Larger than women’s shawls,
these too appear to have been generally undecorated. Breechcloths, huara, were
usually plain weave. On the coast, however, loincloths were often decorated, as
tunics were shorter. This unremarkable garment featured in an important
coming-of-age ritual known as the huarachicuy, when noble youths received
their first loincloth. The elaborate ritual culminated with an ear-piercing
ceremony; large ear spools set the youths apart as nobles.