CHAPTER XXI. THE MOLUCCAS—
TERNATE.
ON the morning of the 8th of January, 1858, I arrived at Ternate, the fourth of
a row of fine conical volcanic islands which shirt the west coast of the large and
almost unknown island of Gilolo. The largest and most perfectly conical
mountain is Tidore, which is over four thousand Feet high—Ternate being very
nearly the same height, but with a more rounded and irregular summit. The town
of Ternate is concealed from view till we enter between the two islands, when it
is discovered stretching along the shore at the very base of the mountain. Its
situation is fine, and there are grand views on every side. Close opposite is the
rugged promontory and beautiful volcanic cone of Tidore; to the east is the long
mountainous coast of Gilolo, terminated towards the north by a group of three
lofty volcanic peaks, while immediately behind the town rises the huge
mountain, sloping easily at first and covered with thick groves of fruit trees, but
soon becoming steeper, and furrowed with deep gullies. Almost to the summit,
whence issue perpetually faint wreaths of smoke, it is clothed with vegetation,
and looks calm and beautiful, although beneath are hidden fires which
occasionally burst forth in lava-streams, but more frequently make their
existence known by the earthquakes which have many times devastated the
town.
I brought letters of introduction to Mr. Duivenboden, a native of Ternate, of
an ancient Dutch family, but who was educated in England, and speaks our
language perfectly. He was a very rich man, owned half the town, possessed
many ships, and above a hundred slaves. He was moreover, well educated, and
fond of literature and science—a phenomenon in these regions. He was generally
known as the king of Ternate, from his large property and great influence with
the native Rajahs and their subjects. Through his assistance I obtained a house;
rather ruinous, but well adapted to my purpose, being close to the town, yet with
a free outlet to the country and the mountain. A few needful repairs were soon
made, some bamboo furniture and other necessaries obtained, and after a visit to
the Resident and Police Magistrate I found myself an inhabitant of the
earthquake-tortured island of Ternate, and able to look about me and lay down
the plan of my campaign for the ensuing year. I retained this house for three