National Geographic Traveler - USA (2019-06 & 2019-7)

(Antfer) #1
Sights and sips (clockwise from left): From its hilltop perch, Castelo
de São Jorge provides the best vistas of Lisbon; painted tiles make
perfect souvenirs in Porto; enologist Duarte de Deus works on the
wine-aging process at Torre de Palma winery in northern Alentejo.

Despite the pelourinhos (old
stone pillories for transgressors)
that are ubiquitous in nearly
every small town, Portugal’s
spirit for celebration always
wins out. What else can you say
about a country that hosts not
only the pavilions for countless
pilgrims who come to honor the
miracle of Our Lady of Fatima
but also the huge soundstages
of Lisbon’s own crazed version
of the Rock in Rio festival? —JK

LISBON
Feast of St. Anthony
Throughout June, the squares
and neighborhoods of Lisbon
take turns celebrating the
city’s patron saint, who was
apparently quite the seafood
maven. The entire city, but
especially touristic Alfama,
is enveloped in the scent of
grilled sardines, traditionally
eaten whole, heaped on broa
(Portuguese corn bread), and
washed down with plenty of
wine. Drum-pounding parades
are also staged.

GOLEGÃ
Horse Fair
In central Portugal, this autumn
gathering that coincides with
the Feast of St. Martin draws
hundreds of regional riders
showing off not just their equine
mounts but also their formal
costumes featuring traditional
waistcoats and blazers and
matching flat hats. This is one
of the best places to get in
touch with rural Portugal and
to gobble the finest chestnuts.
feiradagolega.com

SINES
Festival Músicas do
Mundo
The large town of Sines, along the
Alentejo coast, is invaded every
July (the 18th to the 27th this year)
by crowds of enthusiasts eager to
hear some of the top world-music
performers from all over the
planet, amid sea breezes and
fireworks. fmmsines.pt

LISBON
Jazz in August
Some of Europe’s most erudite
practitioners of contemporary
jazz perform long into balmy
nights at the outdoor amphithe-
ater on the grounds of Lisbon’s
world-class Gulbenkian Museum.
gulbenkian.pt/jazzemagosto

LAKE IDANHA-A-NOVA
Boom
Portugal’s version of Nevada’s
Burning Man, this tented, new-
age conclave gathers every
other year (next in 2020) on the
mountainous shores of Lake
Idanha-a-Nova. The festival
agenda is filled with trance music,
art installations, and alt-culture
experiences. boomfestival.org

GO WITH NAT GEO
Nat Geo Expeditions offers several
itineraries to Portugal, including
an 11-day cruise along the Douro
River embarking from Porto.
natgeoexpeditions.com/explore;
888-966-8687

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