fishermenhavehada goodweek.
Youcanbuysaltfiskur– saltcod- fromMortans,a wonderfulold
fishermanwitha terrifictwinklein
hiseye.Carryonwalkingaround
thequayandyou’llfindSkeiva
Pakkhús(skeivapakkhus.fo),an
Italian-inspiredrestaurantrunby
Johannes Jensen,whoruns 15
establishmentsontheislands.I
lovedheadchefHenrySamuelsen’s
raviolistuffedwithsaltcodand
servedwitha slickofbrownbutter.
Setbackfromtheharbouris lamb
andseafoodspecialistÁarstova
(aarstova.fo),ina traditionalwooden
building.Expecta warmwelcome
atnearbyBarbaraFishHouse
(barbara.fo), as well as a cracking
winelistanda shortmodernmenu
thatincludesgrilledlangoustines,
crabclawswitha herbdippingsauce,
andbluemusselscaughtinthe
watersnexttothevillageofKaldbak.
Forsweetindulgence,putyour
feetupandenjoya sliceofcakeand
steamingcoffeeatPanameCafé
(facebook.com/paname.fo).Pastry
chefNielsBrogaardÁ Rógvuhas
gaineda reputationforhavingthe
bestdessertsintown– hiscarrot
cakeis seriouslyimpressive.PRESERVINGTRADITION
Aftercheckingouta numberof
restaurantmenus,it struckmehow
manydriedandpreservedfoods
there were. The climate is harshCLOCKWISEFROMLEFT
Turfroof,a traditionalScandinavian
buildingtechnique;Faroesheep
outnumberpeopleontheislands;
Tórshavn’sprettyharbour,
Vesteravag;fishdryinginthesalty
wind;theislands’northerlylocation
means sunshine is rare in winterFAROE ISLANDSMykines
Lake
LeitisvatnVágar TÓRSHAVNEysturoyKoltur
HesturSandoySkúvoyStóraDimun
Litla DimunSuouroyBorooyNorth
Atlantic
OceanNNorwegian
SeaViooy Fugloy
KalsoyKunoylAirportllLake
LeynavatnlLake
SaksunarvatulGásadalurlSvinoyNólsoyStreymoy