I LOVE FAST FOOD
PHOEBE & MATT’S PERFECT STEAK SANDWICH
MAKES 4(^1) / 2 red onion, thinly sliced into rounds
1 tsp caster sugar
2 tbs red wine vinegar
500g butt-end beef fillet steak, sliced 6mm thick
Extravirgin olive oil, to drizzle
4 thin slices vintage cheddar
8 slices sourdough, toasted
2avocados,cutintowedges
8 small cos lettuce heart leaves
HERB MAYONNAISE
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves and stems chopped
Juiceof2lemons
1anchovyfilletinoil
2 tsp English mustard powder
350mlgrapeseed oil
1 egg
20 basil leaves
2 tsp each thyme leaves and dill sprigs
Tomakepickledonion,placeonion,sugar,1tsp salt flakes and
vinegarinanon-reactivebowlandsetaside.
Forherbmayonnaise,usingastickblender,whizparsley,juice
from 1 lemon, anchovy, 1 tsp salt flakes, mustard powder and
100mloiltoafinepaste.Addeggwithoutbreakingtheyolk,then
topwithremaining1cup(250ml)oil.Placeheadofstickblender
overyolkandwhiz.Whenyouseepaleribbonsintheoil,bring
blenderheadupthroughremainingoil,thenupanddownalittle,
toincorporateallingredients.Addherbsandpulseintomayo.
Seasontotastewithsaltflakesandremaininglemonjuice.
Heatachargrillpanorfrypantohighheat.Seasonbeefand
drizzlewithoil.Inbatchesifnecessary,cookbeeffor1-2minutes
each side for medium. Add cheese after turning beef and allow
tomeltalittle.Removebeeffromheatandrestfor5minutes.
Spreadhalf toast with mayonnaise. Add beef, cheese-side up.
Top with onion, avocado, lettuce and remaining toast slices. PHOTOGRAPHY
BEN DEARNLEY
STYLING
EMMA KNOWLES
IN THE OLDdays,thedevilwaspaintedwithhornsandaforked
tail.Today,heismorelikelytobeportrayedinaclownsuitorwith
alittlewhitebeard.Fastfoodisonthenose,andmarketresearch
companyIBISWorldpredictssaleswilldeclinein2018-19,despite
morerestaurantsofferingtakeawaythroughnewdelivery services.
WE’REFALLINGOUTOFLOVEWITHFASTFOOD
Inits2017reportoneatingout,Intermediafoundthatthe
popularity of Australia’s four most popular fast food chains over
thepreviousyearhadslumped(McDonald’swasdownby19.5%,
KFCby19.2%,HungryJack’sby16.4%,Subwayby15.4%).The
reportsawanopposingriseinthepopularityofhealthier
takeawayoptions–up14.7%.Nowonder,then,thatthefastfood
chains–underattackfrommultiplesources–havescrambledto
maintain their relevance. They’ve introduced vegetarian and
veganitems,so-called‘healthyoptions’,and(withvaryinglevels
of commitment) displayed nutritional information on-pack, in store
or,most likely, somewhere on their website.
FASTFOOD CONTRADICTIONS
Ourrelationshiptofastfoodisacomplexone.Whyisitthat
I’m happy to go through a drive-thru in the US but would run
screamingfromonehere?WhywillIqueuefora$9battered,
beaten-flat,deep-friedbreastofchickenfromanewTaiwanese
chickenshopwhenI’dneverbuya12-piece,$20bucketinOz?
Itcan’tjustbeaquestionofpriceand quality, or the comparative
valueof their Instagrammability.
Isitthatunusualfastfoodoffersanexoticalternativetothe
norm both at home or overseas? Is it because eating sweet-spicy-
crunchy Korean wings from a hole-in-a-wall chain like Beer King is
a cultural experience in Seoul, but not in a similar air-conditioned
suburbanAussie food court?
FASTFOOD AT HOME
Whiletheroadsmightbeincreasinglycloggedwithpoorlypaid
food delivery riders/drivers, the biggest challenge for fast food
chains is how to deliver something other than convenience and
fattening, high-sugar, processed-white-flour options.
Somuchresearchthesedayspointstotheimportancemanyof
us place onauthenticity,honestyandcommunity.Thebigchains,
whether multinational or local, struggle to authentically deliver on
these concepts.
So why not instead create your own super-fast food at home?
Withdelicious.foodwhizPhoebeWood,Icameupwiththissteak
sandwich recipe in real time while demoing at last year’s Western
Sydney Parklands Food Fest. It takes as long to cook as it does to
Or do I? As Australians question their relationship with convenience,
Matt Preston contemplates his own feelings for its attractions.
@mattscravat
toasttwobitsofbread,andittastesfreakin’delicious.Italsohits
that other great buzz concept of new fast-casual restaurants –
affordable luxury, in every meaty mouthful.
42 delicious.com.au