T
reaksandfishtacoscertainlydominatethe
imaginationoverimagesofwineconnoisseurs swirling
and spitting sauvignon blanc, grenache and tempra
While the revival
wine-makinginMexicodatesbackto
the16thcentury.Infact,Mexicowasthebirthplaceofviticulture
intheNewWorldandishometotheoldestwineryinthe
Americas–CasaMaderoinCoahuilainthecountry’snortheast.
Wine trickled into Mexico with the Spanish missionaries.
Following the Spanish, a wave of Russian immigrants –
Molokans–fleeingreligiouspersecutionduringtheRussian
RevolutionsettledinBajaafterreceivinggovernmentland
grantsandplayedakeyroleincementingmodernvinification
techniques. Today, wineries exist in several states where
Mediterranean climates offer that magical mix of high altitude,
intense sun, cooling ocean winds and low overnight
temperatures, including Sonora, Zacatecas, Que
iqueterroir,wherechefsandwinemakersalikearecombining
localandinternationalingredientsandnoustocreate
something trulyhecho en Mexico (made in Mexico).Notall of the wineries have restaurants, but those worth
astopforawinetastingincludeClos de Tres Cantoswith its
spectacularcellardoorfeaturingwallsofrecycledwinebottles
for insulation that double as light installations.Monte Xanic
isMexico’sfirstboutiquewineryandoneofthemosthighly
regardedintheregion.Siptheiraward-winningwhites,which
have scooped medals at international competitions as far afield
as Portugal and Bordeaux. The modernist cellar door nestles
into tndah overlooking the vines.
“BajaistheyoungeststateinMexico,andwearecreatingour
ownhistoryandidentitynow,”saysFernandoPerezCastro,
whoownssisterwineriesFincaLaCarrodillaandHacienda La
Lomita, which is home to the open-air paddock-to-plate
restaurantTrasLomita–atopspotforlunch.Thevineyard
practises organic and biodynamic viticulture, which extend to
the kitchen garden, where all produce on chef Sheyla Alvarado’s
effortlesslyelegantmenuisgrown,whilemeatissourcedfrom
neighbouringorganicfarms.Amealhereisasophisticatedyet
relaxed depiction of the seasons, including ‘green ceviche’
marinated in a piquantaguachilesaucemadefromhabanero
chillies,sucklingpigtacos–thetortillascolouredblackfrom
onionash–house-madericottawithgrilledasparagus,and
heirloom vegetables served unconventionally withmole–a
prime example of the rule breaking that defines this vibrant,
youthful winery.“BAJAISTHEYOUNGESTSTATEINMEXICO,ANDWE
ARE CREATING OUR OWN HISTORY AND IDENTITY.”