INTERVIEWSAMANTHAJONESPORTRAITPHOTOGRAPHYBENDEARNLEYFOODPHOTOGRAPHYBEN DEARNLEYSTYLINGKIRSTEN JENKINSMECHANDISINGEMMALY STEWARTTHE CHEF ANDTHE BUTCHERC:Comeon,what’sgood about sausages
now?I wanttoknow.
A:Sausages 10 yearsagowereallthe
offcuts.Whateverwasontheground,they
scrapedit upandmadeit intoa sausage.
Whereasnow,a reallygoodsausage is
justasmuchasa goodsteak.
C:Howdopeopleknow?
A:If you’rebuyingsausages,therearetwo
thingstolookfor:if youcanseechunksof
meat,it’salwaysa goodsign.Thencheck
thattheyhavenaturalcasings. You don’t
wantsynthetic.It’splastic.
C:It’sedibleplastic.
A:It’sstillplastic!Youknowwhere they
gotthename‘bangers’?
C:No,where?
A:DuringWorldWarII, withrationsand
peoplestruggling,sausageswerethe
absolutecheapestfoodyoucouldbuy
becausetheyweremadefromallthe
leftoverstuff.Therewaswaterin them,
andfiller.Andbecausetheyhadallofthat
badstuffin them,theyusedtopopand
explodewhenyoucookedthem.Bangers!
C:That’sa goodstory.There’s no better
partyfoodthanhotdogs.
A:That’swhywedecidedtodo a hotdog
forthe18thbirthdayparty!
C:Alright,sowe’lluseporkandfennel.
A:I’venever liked pork and fennel!
C:Why?
A:Thefennel,it getsstuckin yourteeth.
Porkis alwaysthebestsausage,butno
fennelforme.A Cumberlandsausage,
ormaybea Toulousesausage.
C:MyfavouritehotdogI haveeverhad
wasontheCircleLineferryin New York.
I’dneverhadonebefore.
A:DefinitelyNewYork.Theymakethe
besthotdogsin theworld. What are your
favourite condiments?
C:Mustard,onion,
ketchup.Obviouslywe’ve
gottotrendyit uphere
forthedelicious.
18thbirthdaythough!
A:I likecheese and
baconbits.
C:I havemanchegoonthisone.
A:Ohhhyeah.ButI don’tlikethefennel.
Let’sjustgowithpork.I likelamband
rosemary,too.Everybodylovessausages.
Andeveryonehastheirfavourite.
C:Porkandsagewithcaramelisedonion.
If I wasa sausage,that’s what I would be.
A:I wouldbe...
C:...annoying.
A:Hilarious.I’dbeporkandapplecider.
C:Witha bitofblackpuddingseasoning.
A:Maybe we should start a sausage line.HOTDOGS WITH SPICY SLAW
SERVES 6300gredcabbage,trimmed, shredded(^1) / 4 cup(60ml)sriracha
11 / 2 tbscastersugar
1 tbsricewinevinegar
(^1) / 4 cupeachlooselypackedflat-leaf
parsleyandtarragonleaves,
roughlychopped
2 tbsvegetableoil
6 porksausages
6 briochehotdogbuns,halved
lengthwise,warmed
1 Lebanesecucumber, thinly sliced
lengthwise
4 eschalots,shaved (we used
amandoline)
50gfinelygratedmanchegocheese
Selectionofyour favourite mustards,
to serve
TopdogsColinFassnidgeandAnthonyPuharich
gooverthehistoryofthehumblesausage,and
come up with a recipe that’s a guaranteed banger.
Tomakethespicyslaw,placethecabbage
in a largecolandersetovera largebowl,
scatterover1 tbsseasaltandtossto
combine.Standatroomtemperaturefor
1 hourtosaltanddrain.Shakeoffany
excessliquidandplacein a cleanbowl.
Addthesriracha,sugar,vinegar and herbs,
andtosstocombine.
Meanwhile,heatoilina largefrypan
overhighheat.Cookthesausages,
turningfrequently,for4-5minutesuntil
cookedthrough.Restfor5 minutes.
Spoonsomespicyslawoverthebaseof
hotdogbunandscattersomeofthesliced
cucumberandeschalot.Placesausageon
topandscatterwithmanchego.Repeat
withremainingpickle,cucumber,eschalot,
sausageandcheese.Spoonover your
favourite mustard and serve.
Madefromchopped,seasonedmeat,
sausagesareoneofthemosteconomical
meatproducts.Butasourresident
butcherAnthonyPuharichsays,youcan
nowgetsausagesthatare just as good
asa top-qualitysteak.
Fromhandmadelambmerguezand
wagyusausages,toorganicpaleo
varieties,thehumblesnagnowcatersfor
everytasteandbudget.Whateverflavour
youdecideon,justbesureit’smadefrom
quality meat with a natural casing.
BUTCHER’SCUT
SAUSAGES
46 delicious.com.au
MEAT MARKET.