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crab pasta with broad beans and corn’
ILLUSTRATION
ALICE CLEARY
BUYINGWhen buying blue
swimmer, make sure all the legs are
intact and firmly attached, and that
the aroma is fresh and of the sea.
They are not sold live because their
highfatcontentandextremely
sensitive nervous system make the
flesh mushy if they die slowly.
STORINGIf buying fresh, use
immediately after purchase – do not
freeze them.
COOKINGBarbecued whole; flesh
picked for stir-fries, pasta, salads,
soupsandbroths;pot-roasted.
CATCHING METHODCaught in
potsandasabi-catchofprawntrawls.
SUBSTITUTIONS Spanner crab
and mud crab.
ACCOMPANIMENTSChilli, basil,
mint, caramelised garlic, pickled
papaya, pepper, egg.
Cooking
swimme
Keep it s
says Joh
BLUE SWIMMER CRAB
HARD ON THE OUTSIDE,
softand sweet on the
inside. Anyway, enough
about me. Blue swimmer
crabs – sometimes called
sand crabs – have the
sweetestfleshofanyvariety.These
peculiar-looking crustaceans are a rich,
bright blue when alive and brilliant,
shimmering orange when cooked.
Growingtoamaximumof1kg,they
have extremely long, thin pincers to
pryopenscallopsandsniptheheads
offprawns,aswellasauniquepairof
back legs that behave like paddles.
Theyare the most common crab in
Australian waters, and as John Susman, of
Seafood consultancy Fishtales, suggests,
theyarethebesteatingcrabDownUnder.
“Theblueswimmercrabhasbyfarand
awaythemostuniqueflavourandtexture,”
hesays.“Sweet,cleanyetrich,ithasa
punchy iodine character, which reflects
theirpreferenceforseagrassbedswhere
they feast on scallops, prawns, small fish
andmolluscs.”
Thefishingcommunitiesbehindblue
swimmerssetitapart,too.“Thetwomost
famous blue crab fishermen, Peter Jecks
(‘Jecksy’)inSharkBayandDennisHolder,
who fishes the Gulf St Vincent and Spencer
Gulf, are both new-age environmentalists,”
says Susman, citing, among several other
initiatives, their lobbying of their state
Uniqueinflavourandtexture,thisbrightlycolouredcrustacean
leaves its relatives green with envy, writesAnthony Huckstep.
governmentstoreducecatchesand their
ethicalharvesting practices.
Although you’ll see punters bringing a
bucket of water to the markets to purchase
live mud crabs, the blue swimmer, because
itrarelyliveslongoutofwater,isoneofthe
fewcrabspeciesnotsoldlive,but instead
‘green’ (raw) or pre-cooked.
“Asageneralrule,ifyouaregoingto
usethemforacolddish,buyacooked
crab,” says Susman. (Fishermen cook them
in seawater from live at the source. As a
result, the flesh remains firm and moist.)
“Ifyouaregoingtousethemforahotdish,
say Singapore chilli crab, use raw crabs.”
Perfect on the barbecue whole, picked
for pastas, salads and soups, and able to
take on big, sharp and even spicy flavour
combos,theblueswimmerisoneofour
most versatile species. Susman, however,
believes it’s best kept simple: “Probably
thebestblueswimmercrabI’veeverhad
was hanging with Jecksy at the Carnarvon
YachtClub,amountainofjust-cooked
crabsonthetablewithbreadandbutter
andmaltvinegarathand.Oh,andabottle
of Margaret River sem sav on ice.”
delicious.com.au/food-files
For more tips on buying and
storing fresh seafood.
@huckstergram @anthuckstep
CATCH
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