Australian Gourmet Traveller - (01)January 2021 (1)

B

enWilliamsonis a manblessed

withmorethanhisfairshareof

patience.It’sbeennearlytwo

yearssincethestarchefofBrisbane’s

Gerard’sBistroannouncedplansforan

ambitiousfire-focusedforaywiththe

teambehindSameSameandHôntô.

Hurdleafterhurdle(frombuilding

approvalstoa pandemic)sawAgnes’s

debutdelayeduntilAugust2020.But

goodthingscometothosewhowait

• theresultofa marathonhospitality
  effortis a multi-levelFortitudeValley
  eaterythatlivesuptothehype.
  Unusuallyfora Queensland
  restaurant,Agnesis a spacethat’snot
  lightandbright,butdarkandsuave.
  Likea rathermoodytrifle,it comprises
  a triooftiers– onentryyou’llgreetthe
  mainrestaurant,a 66-seaterequipped
  withcommunaltablesfocusedaround
  thekitchen.Downstairssitsa sleek
  wine bar, while above resides the

outdoorrooftopcourtyard– ideal

forbalmyBrisbaneevenings.

Asforthefare,Agnesis

a celebrationoffoodoverfirewhich

forgoesgasandelectricityfor

ingredientskissedbysmokeand

flames.Williamsonhaswholeheartedly

embracedwood-firedcooking,using

a motleycrewofhardwoods(from

cherrytoironbark)acrossa duoof

charcoalpitsandwrought-iron

hangingracks.Theresultis dishes

thatareinnovativebutnotintimidating,

witha stripped-backapproachthat

interweavesFrench,Japanese and

MiddleEasternflavours.

Anassortmentofsnacks,entrées,

mainsanddessertsformsthemenu.

Snacksarebite-sized;thescarlet

prawndoughnuta non-negotiable.

A heavenlywoodfiredcabbagetopped

withryekojibuttersauceandcrunchy

puffed brown rice leads the charge

withsmallerplates,followedclosely

bytenderoctopuswithblack lemon,

almondandgarlicshoots.

Whileyoucangorgeyourselfsilly

onsnackplatesalone,themains

deservesomeattention.Pricessurge

inthissectionbutdishesaredesigned

toshareandportionsaregenerous.

Tendersmokedlambneckcomes

accompaniedbyzestypickles,ancho

moleandflatbread,whiletheaged

duckis servedwithcumquatsand

braisedgreens.Therearealsotwo

agedsteaksforthecarnivores,

includinga 260-dayagedwagyu,

platedwithsmokedmandarinkanzuri.

A balanceddessertlistpromises

tosatisfysweettooths.Orderthe

Basquecheesecakeif it’sonthemenu

(which,devastatingly,it’snotalways).

Itscompetitor,thesmokedstickydate,

fallsshort– whilerefreshingly light,

it’sservedlukewarm.

A globalarrayofwines(including

natural)sitalongsidesmoke-tinged

cocktails.Spiritenthusiastswillbe

pleasedthatthislengthylistofspecialty

spiritsis settogrow,withAgnestoying

withplanstodevelopa distilleryonsite.

Ongoingrestrictionshavemade

bookinga tableatAgnestricky.It may

takeweeksto get in but the wait is

worthit.●

ChefBenWilliamsonisheatingupBrisbane’sdining

scene once again, writesSARAH BRISTOW.

ON FIRE

Clockwisefromleft:bonitosandwichwith

white’ndujaandstrawberrysalsa;andgrilled

chickentailswithgarliccreamandpicklesat

Agnes.Opposite:seasonalproduceonthe

hangingracksandcharcoalpitsinthekitchen.

PREVIOUS PAGE The wine bar at Agnes.

TH

EN

EWCOM

ER

Brisbane,

Qld

GOURMET TRAVELLER 35

Review

PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID CHATFIELD.