Australian Gourmet Traveller - (01)January 2021 (1)

TH

ECLASSIC

Melbourne,

Vic

T

heliftis new.It’salsorelatively

fast,shavingnearly 20 seconds

fromtheonceepic/alarming

durationofthejourneyfromFlower

Drum’sentrancelobbytoitsfirst-floor

diningroom.Theoldelevator’s

lengthydrumrollmayhavebeen

shortenedbutnothingcandiminish

thereveal.ThatfirstviewofFlower

Drum’sgrand,warm-hueddininghall,

busywithformally-cladwaitersand

lavishwithshimmeringlacquered

surfacesandsculpturalflower

arrangements,itsroundwhite-clothed

tablesscatteredacrossthespacelike

waterliliesona pondoflushred

carpet,is oneoftheall-timegreat

openingscenesofAustraliandining.

Theviewfromtheliftis enoughin

itselftoremindyouoftheenjoyable

dramaofgreatrestaurants,butthere’s

also the joy of being looked afterby

a properlyprofessionalteamledby

JasonLui,sonofchefAnthonyLui

and,withhisdad,nowsoleownerof

theDrum.Theserviceis impeccable,

fromdiscreetlytoppedupglassesand

timelyattentionthat’sneverintrusive

tothedelightfulseriesofanimals(cat,

giraffe,duck,crab)drawntableside

ontotheplatewithsweet-saltyplum

saucetoaccompanythe45-year-old

restaurant’sdeservedlyfamousPeking

Duck,allcrisp,fattyandshiny-skinned

initssoftpancakewrapping.

Themenuis asepicasthe

setting.TakingclassicCantoneseas

a touchstoneanda jumpingoffpoint,

thelistrangesfromcoldstarters like

crunchy-slipperymarinated

jellyfishglisteningwithsesame

dressingtosignaturepearl

meatsautéedtoexquisite

glossiness with spring onions,

garlicchivesand(inseason)

asparagus.Therearecrisp-friedpork

ribslollingina pileofcrunchygarlicky

rubbleanddimsumgoodenough

(asemi-transparentporkandchive

dumpling)tomaketheunwaryteary.

TheFlowerDrummenuretains

much-lovedfavouritesbutis notstatic.

Recentadditionstoaddtothemust-

havelist? A gloriously-texturedparcel

ofeggtofuwithscallopandprawn

meat,wrappedina Chinesebroccoli

leafanddressedwithoystersauce,

anda takeontheScotcheggwhere

a dark-huedcenturyeggis encased

ina mixofquailmeatandwater

chestnut,thencrumbedandfried.

Thewinelistleansclassic,wisely

choosinga supportingroletothefood.

It strikestherightbalance,muchlike

everythingelseinthisbeautifully,

meticulouslymaintainedfinediner.

A newbarwilladdanother

stringtothebowofthis

institutionthatremainsone

ofMelbourne’sgreatlessons

in how to do a restaurant right.●

ThisMelbourneinstitutionremainsa lessoninhow

to do a restaurant right, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

FLOWER POWER

QU

ICKLOOK

FLOWERDRUM

17 MarketLn,

Melbourne,Vic

flowerdrum.melbourne

CHEFAnthonyLui

OPENINGHOURS

Mon-Satnoon-3pm

and6pm-11pm;

Sun6pm-10.30pm

PRICEGUIDE$$$

BOOKINGSEssential

• atleasttwoweeks
  in advance.
  VERDICTA restaurant
  toremindyouwhy
  you love restaurants.

Clockwise

fromtopleft:

a banquet;the

diningroomat

Flower Drum.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 39

Review