Australian Gourmet Traveller - (01)January 2020 (1)

GOURMET TRAVELLER 143

E AT

SHOP SEE

BrijramaPalaceThisriversidepalacewasbuiltin 1812 toserveasa fort,andhassince

beentransformedintoa luxurious32-roomhotel.Thebuildingis oneofthecity’soldest

landmarksandis admiredforitsdetailedexteriorandgrandinterior.Perchbyoneofthe

river-facingwindowsandsoakupthespectacularviews,orrelaxinthesittingarea and

enjoy the nightly sitar serenade. Near Munshi Ghat, Bangali Tola, brijrama.com

DeenaChatBhandar

Varanasiis knownforits

streetsidechaat(snacks).Stop

byatlocalhotspotDeenaChat

Bhandarfrom2pmuntillatefor

moreishbitessuchassamosa

(stuffedandfriedpastries),pani

puri(friedhollowpastryfilled

withspicedpotatoandflavoured

water),andtamatarchaat

(tomatogravyservedin petite

terracottapots;above).Hanuman

Mandir,RamapuraLuxa Rd.

CantonRoyale

Skipthemixedcuisineand

goforthethali,a selectionof

traditionaldishesandsides

includingdhal,rotiandraita,

allmadein-houseusingfresh,

localingredients.Therestaurant

is locatedinsideHotelSurya,

andyoucanchoosetoenjoy

yourmealintheheritagepalace

orinthegarden.HotelSurya,

S20/51,A-5,TheMall Rd,

VaranasiCantt.

DosaCafe

Thispocket-sizedcaféserves

SouthIndian-stylecrêpescalled

dosa,whichareperfectfora

lightlunchorafternoonsnack.

Madefromfermentedrice

batter,thegolden,wafer-thin,

slightlycrispcrêpesarefilled

withcheese,tomato,onionor

masala(spicedpotato).Ask

forextrasambarandchutney

ontheside.D15/49Maan

Mandir, Dashashwamegh Ghat.

Visittheweavers’villageofSaraiMohana

andshopforrenownedBanarasisilk

sarees– garmentstraditionallywornby

Indianwomenonspecialoccasionssuch

asfestivalsandweddings.Localartisans

handweavethesarees,whichare

knownfortheirfinequality,intricategold

andsilverbrocadeworkandopulent

embroidery.Silksmadeinthisvillageare

used in the Taj Hotels throughout India.

Wakeupearlyandtakea gentleboatride

alongtheGangestowatchthesunrise.

You’llseelocalsandpilgrimsdescendin

hordesontotheghats,thestepsthatlead

downtothewater’sedge,tobatheand

paytheirrespectstotheriver.Atdusk,

headtoDashashwamedhGhatnear

VishwanathtempletowitnesstheGanga

Aarti,a powerfulandupliftingceremony

where fire is used as a religious offering.

STAY

Above:Views
fromBrijrama
Palace.Left:
tamatarchaat
(fromleft),and
panipuriwith
flavouredwater
atDeenaChat
Bhandar.

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