Australian Gourmet Traveller - (02)February 2020 (1)

(Comicgek) #1
AstoldtoJessicaRiggfor
TheLocalTongue. Formore
chef’sguidesfromaroundthe
world, seethelocaltongue.com

Clockwisefrom
farleft:a Copenhagen
streetscene;Manfreds’
bar;Bæstheadchef
JanKopacz;onion,
birchwaterandpineoil
atRelæ;SlurpRamen
Joint;roastedpumpkin
withcarrotsauceat
La Banchina.

Bringing Mexico
to Copenhagen
TherestaurantI visitthemost
isSanchezbyRosioSanchez.What
standsoutis thatit bringsflavours
totheplatethatyoudon’treally
findanywhereelseinCopenhagen.
It’suniqueandyoucan’tbeatit for
Rosio’sinventiveMexicandishes.


Thecombinationofacidityand
flavoursfromsmokedchillies
and fruit is something special.


Anambitious
bowlof noodles
SlurpRamenJointis anextremely
ambitious ramen project. The chefs


Bakers’ delights
WhenI’montheroad,theonething
I missis sourdoughfromMirabelle
Bakery. It’sthebreadweserveat
allourrestaurants,andif youeat
atMirabellerestaurantyoucansee
it beingmadeatourin-housebakery.
We’veexpandedwithcroissants
anda fewlaminateddoughsthatI’m
veryproudof.Wekeeptheoffering
limitedsothatwehavelesswaste
and keep the quality high.

Drinking wine,
naturally
If I havesomethingtocelebrate,I’ll
mostlikelyheadtoVedStranden
10. It’srefinedbutstillmanagesto
feelcasual.I loveit. Myrestaurant
andwinebarManfredswas,I dare
tosay,oneofthefirstvenuesto
reallypushthenatural-wineagenda
in Copenhagen.It’sabout simplicity
and high quality.

Exploring vermouth
LastyearweaddedRudototheRelæ
community.It’sa vermouth-focused
barthatwehavegreatpleasure
workingon.It’sa drink-focusedvenue
sothefoodis quitesimple.Thereare
thingslikehouse-madecharcuterie,
andthemostpopulardishis the
stracciatella and black-truffle toast.●

areveryfocusedonthequality
oftheproductandmakeallofthe
noodlesthemselves.Thekitchen
essentiallyrunsasa lineina
fine-diningrestaurant,whichis
quite impressive for what it is.

Taking DIY to
the next level
WhenI entertainI wanttobeable
tosharefoodwithfriends,and
there’snothingquitelikesharing
theburrataatBæst.Beingmyown
restaurantI’mobviouslybiased,
butit’salsomyhouse.Bæsthas
a butcheryandmicro-dairyupstairs
wherewemakeallourcharcuterie
andraw-milkcheeses,something
that is unique in Denmark.

Asian food
cooked with care
LisaLov,a formersouschefatRelæ,
openedTigermomin2018.The
menuis aneclecticviewonher
CambodianandNewZealandroots
witha modernmixofAsianflavours
andpersonality.It hasa setmenu
thatchangesallthetimebutone
dishthatreallystoodoutformewas
scallopwithXObutter.Whileworking
atRelæ,Lovlearnthowtosource
thefinestproduceandchampion
thesustainableagenda,andthisis
something she brings to Tigermom.

Sustainable seafood
If youwanttoeatwherethelocals
eat,headtoLaBanchinaforsimple
tastyfishbythewater.Thisis usually
whereyou’llfindmeona summer’s
day.Thechef,a formerapprentice
ofmine,makesnocompromises
andonlysourcesfishthathecan
serve with a good conscience.

Fried chicken
and beer
BroughttoyoubytheAmass
team,Broaden& Buildis a great
placetogowitha fewfriends.
It’sa breweryinanoldwarehouse
witha taproomanddelicious
barsnacks,likeitsfamousfried
chicken.Thefoodis simple,
organic and ingredient driven.

A chef’s guide


GOURMET TRAVELLER 127
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