Australian Gourmet Traveller - (02)February 2020 (1)

AND ALSO...

THELONGLUNCH

Summerlunchingis easyonthe

NSWCentralCoast,particularly

atBellsatKillcare’sreimagined

restaurant,TheWildFlower

Bar& Dining. Highlightsfromthe

Mediterraneanmenu(above)include

tempura-lightfrittomisto,locally

caughtwhole-grilledfishwithherby

salsasalmoriglio,andanchovy-

studdedcavolonero.Retreatto

thegardenandsipPolRogerbythe

glass,thenstaythenightif inclined.

107 TheScenicRd,KillcareHeights,

(02) 4349 7000,bellsatkillcare.com.au

HOLASONORA

ThepowerduobehindBondi’s

Mexicanwateringholes,Taquiza

andCarbon,hasopenedSonora,

a neon-litjointinPottsPoint.It’s

quintessentialMexicanwithmodern

flair;guacamoleis trickedupwith

caperberriesandcharredartichoke,

whiletacosarebolsteredwith

grilledoctopus,wildmushrooms

andquail.There’salsoa hearty

selectionoftequilaandorganic

mezcaltohelpgetthefiestastarted.

¡Salud!Shop1, 37-41BayswaterRd,

PottsPoint,sonora-mexican.com.au

SOMELIKEITHOT

BelovedDarlinghurstizakaya

ChacoBarhasdividedtheirramen

andyakitorioffering,openingan

outpostdedicatedtoskewersand

share-styledishes,whiletheoriginal

focusesonramen.Thenewspace

in PottsPointis muchlargerthan

thefirst,witha longcommunal

tableandanislandgrilluptheback.

Chooseyourownoffaladventure,

orstayin thesafezone– justdon’t

bypassthesilkycrabchawanmushi.

186-188VictoriaSt,PottsPoint,(02)

8593 4567, chacobar.com.au

Sydney review

single-useplasticsarebanned,
cookingoilsarerecycledinto
biofuel,lightingis LED,and
carefulwasteseparationhashelped
toreducetherestaurant’slandfill
contributionby 80 percent.If
otherchefsaren’ttakingnotes
bynow,theyshould.NowI run
theriskofsoundingpreachy.
Lingerinthekitchena little

longerandyoumightnoticethe
absenceofsmoke.Unlikethe
originalresidencethereis no
woodfiredovenorgrill,whichis
a considerableshiftforChallinor.
Yo u’d thinkherfire-kissedflavours
wouldbemissed,especiallyin
thesignaturescorchedflatbread,
butnotso. Thelatestiteration
offlatbreadis cookedonthe
planchaandtheresultproves

highlysuccessful.Theoutercrust
ofthefocacciadoughis almost
roti-likewhiletheinsideremains
light.Nofirerequired.
Surprisingly,anotherdishthat
doesn’tmissanopenflameis the
spatchcock, whichisbrinedfor
threehours,marinatedovernight
inchermoulaheavywithparsley,
corianderandgarlic,thensealed

ina hotpanandroastedinthe
oven.Themeatis tenderand
themarinadestillvibrant– a
lackofchargoesunnoticed.
Thewinemenuisincredibly
robust. There’s a new addition to

Nomad*

*UptheRoad

85 Commonwealth

St,SurryHills,

(02) 9280 3395,

nomadwine.

com.au

OpenLunchMon-

Sunnoon-2pm;

dinnerMon-Wed

6pm-late;Thurs-

Sat5.30pm-late

Prices

Snacks$5-$18,

entrées$16-$29,

maincourses$36-

$55,sides$12-$21,

desserts$10-$19

Vegetarian

Onesnack,

fourentrées,one

main,threesides

NoiseInnocuous

Wheelchair

accessYe s

MinusOnlyin

residence’tillJune

PlusNotfar

from the original

Details

theAustralian-dominantlistwith

customwinemadeexclusivelyfor

NomadbytheformidableNick

FarrofWinebyFarr.Housewine

hasnevermetsuchhighstandards.

Alternatively,zeroinona glass

oftheSimlawhitefieldblend–

a celestialmixtureofchardonnay,

rieslingandsauvignonblanc–

fromtheDerwentValley,ora

high-octanesavagninfromYetti

&TheKokonutintheBarossa.

They’rebotha goodtimewith

thepomegranate-jewelledpickled

eggplant.If youhaveanyleftover

bread,thisisyourcuetomopup

thesweetandslightlytartpulp.

Anorange-blossomsundaesits

ontherefreshingendofthedessert

scale.It seeshalfahollowedorange

filledwithgoat’s-milkyoghurt

sorbetandorangecaramel, then

toppedwitha moundofbitter

orangegranita.Theflavouris like

a Negronispider:citrusyand

creamyallat once.

Atthesweetbutnotsaccharine

end,buriedinhalvarubbleand

garnishedwithdelicateelderflower,

isanolive-oilice-creamsandwich

• atexturaltreatheldtogether
  withbronzedwafersofpastry.An
  enduringfavouriteforgoodreason.
  Itslocationmaybedifferent,
  butyou’llbepleasedtoknow
  thatNomadhasneverfeltmore
  at home; right here, right now.●

GOURMET TRAVELLER 41