I wasborninScotlandandmyfamilyleftthecountrywhenI wasseven
tomovetoNewZealand.Mymotheris fromtheShetlandIslands,way
upintheNorthSea.Everysummerwewouldgoupthereandstaywith
mygrandparentsforabouta month.Mygrandfatheranduncleswere
fishermenandwe’dheadoutontheirboatsintheeveningandgo
fishingfortroutinthelochsordredgeforscallops.We’d have these
longsummereveningssurroundedbylotsoffood.MyScottishgrandmotherusedtomakea thingcalledreestitmutton,
whichis driedmutton.TheNorwegianandRussianwhalerswouldcome
toshoreandtheyhadlotsofwhale,buttheydidn’thaveanymutton,so
mygrandmotherwouldtradethemuttonforwhale.Asa kidI ate whale.
I oftendropthatintodinnerpartyconversationforeffect.Werecentlyhada ’70spartytocelebratemydaughter’s13thbirthday.
I madedevilsonhorseback;mymother-in-lawmadea salmonmousse,
whichwassetina fishmould;andwehada fondue.Werealisedaswe
wereeatingallthisfoodjusthowhorribleit wasandhowfarwe’dcome.It’ssafetosaythe’70swasnota greatculinaryperiod.Growingup
inNewZealandduringthattimemymumwouldmakecasserolesusing
pre-madepowderedbases,whichtobefairwerequiteinnovativethen.
It wasverystandardcolonial,meatandtwoveg;mince and potatoes.
I didn’ttrysushiuntilI wasabout 30 yearsold.I liveinWillungainSouthAustralia.There’ssucha strongfocusonfood
andproducedownhere.Duringsummerit feelsliketheMediterranean- you’ve got the food, the wine, the sea. It’s such an easy place to live.
TheNewZealand-Australianactorongrowing
upinScotland,’70sdelicacies,and his new role
as a disgraced celebrity chef.ERIK THOMSON
AQ
U
CI
K
W
OR
D WIT
HAsa kid I ate
whale.I often drop
thatinto dinner
partyconversation
for effect.