130 GOURMET TRAVELLER
prepared with flair in an unpretentious
boatshed on the island of Scalpay,
across a bridge from Harris.North
Harbour, Scalpay, +44 1859 540218
40 NorthFrom the croft kitchen
where her father used to weave,
Anne Campbell runs a restaurant
and home-style takeaway meal outlet;
don’t miss her hearty pies.40 North
Bragar, Lewis, 40northfoods.co.uk
Oban Seafood HutCrowds share
communal benches outside this green
shack at the Calmac ferry terminal at
Oban, which serves the Inner Hebridean
islands, for huge helpings of crab,
lobster and scallops on plastic plates.
Calmac Pier, Oban
Port Charlotte HotelFollow a hearty
pub meal of island produce with a
fireside session in the bar with a
whisky and live trad music.Port
Charlotte, Islay, portcharlottehotel.co.uk
Royal HotelExpect the likes of Lewis
lamb and creel-caught langoustines
in The Boatshed bistro.Cromwell St,
Stornoway, Lewis, royalstornoway.co.ukShop
Walker SlaterThere are stores in
Glasgow and London but Walker
Slater’s Edinburgh HQ is the last word
in tweed, fine tailoring and terrific
service, whether it’s a four-piece suit
in featherweight tweed, high-waisted
tartan trousers with braces or a Harris
Tweed overcoat for foul weather.16-20
Victoria St, Edinburgh, walkerslater.com
21st Century KiltsFrom a sandstone
studio in historic Thistle Street, Howie
Nicholsby is on a mission to “give
all men an everyday alternative toFrom left:
Lews Castle,
Stornoway;
clockwise from
top: roasted cod
with hand-dived
Harris scallops
and pea purée,
Stornoway
black pudding
with chorizo
and Scalpay
prawns, and
a salad of creel-
caught Harris
langoustines at
North Harbour
Bistro, Scalpay.Getting there
Emirates, Qatar and British Airways
fly one-stop to Edinburgh from
select Australian cities.Caledonian
MacBrayneoperates regular car ferries
between the Scottish mainland and the
Hebridean islands.Loganairflies
between Glasgow and Islay, and
from both Glasgow and Edinburgh
to the island of Lewis and Harris.Stay
The Edinburgh GrandThe neo-classical
former National Bank of Scotland
has been transformed into 50 luxe
apartments and The Register Club,
a cocktail bar, games room and snug,
with splendid original features.42 St
Andrew Sq, Edinburgh, lateralcity.com
Islay HouseA private estate since 1677,
this charming boutique hotel with a
serious whisky bar is surrounded by
a community garden and Bridgend
Woods. Bridgend, Islay, islayhouse.co.uk
Lews CastleThis 19th-century gothic-
revival castle set in a 270-hectare
estate has chic apartments upstairs,
and a bar, café and the marvellous
Museum nan Eilean downstairs.
Stornoway, Lewis,naturalretreats.co.uk
Nira CaledoniaTwin Georgian
townhouses emerged from a£1.4-million refurbishment last year
with their grand period features
intact and elegant furnishings in
28 guestrooms.6-10 Gloucester Pl,
Edinburgh, niracaledonia.com
Old Town ChambersThe inspired
restoration of a 15th-century
townhouse has created a warren
of spacious studios, apartments
and penthouses in Edinburgh’s
medieval heart.Roxburgh’s Court,
323 High St, Edinburgh, lateralcity.com
Whitefalls Spa LodgesWatch the
Northern Lights in winter or the long
midsummer twilight from whirlpool spa
baths in two luxe lodges designed for
couples near Callanish Stones. Owner
Donald Macarthur is a mine of local
knowledge.2 Breasclete, Lewis,
whitefalls.co.ukEat
Gardener’s CottageFollow a path
through vegie patches to a humble
19th-century gardener’s cottage, where
highly seasonal tasting menus are
served at long communal tables. Chef
Dale Mailley opened his third city
kitchen, The Lookout by Gardener’s
Cottage, on Calton Hill in November.
Royal Terrace Gardens, 1 London Rd,
Edinburgh, thegardenerscottage.co
Islay HouseChef Alex Floyd grew
up on the neighbouring island of
Jura and returned to the Hebrides
after stints in London and Brazil.
He uses terrific island produce in
refined dishes, served in an elegant
formal dining room.
North HarbourBistro and Tearoom
Book ahead for trawler-fresh seafoodTrip
notestrousers” as a matter of choice and
health. “You know it’s scientifically
proven that men who wear kilts are
more fertile and have better testicular
health,” he says. The third-generation
Jewish-Scottish custom kilt maker to
the stars (and habitual kilt wearer)
makes finely detailed tartan kilt suits
but prefers to work in heavy denim,
Harris Tweed and camouflage with
leather details and an external pocket
system. Accessorise with combat boots
and a swagger.48 Thistle St, Edinburgh,
21stcenturykilts.comSee
Harris Tweed AuthorityThe office
of the statutory body charged with
maintaining the authenticity of Harris
Tweed globally also houses an
exhibition space and hosts weaving
demonstrations.Town Hall, 2 Cromwell
St, Stornoway, Lewis, harristweed.org
Islay whisky trailThe island’s eight
distilleries (a ninth, Ardnahoe, is due to
open early this year) operate a range of
daily tours, tastings and experiences,
including Laphroaig’s peat-cutting
excursion. Hours and tour frequency are
seasonal; a handy brochure is updated
annually and available at all distilleries
but not online, so check distillery
websites for details. There are six
taxi services, bike hire at Port Ellen,
and car hire at Islay Airport.
Museum nan EileanA homage to
Hebridean history, culture and language
in Lews Castle.Stornoway, Lewis,
lews-castle.co.ukMorevisitbritain.com