Australian Gourmet Traveller - (05)May 2019 (1)

FRESHPASTA

Threequartersofthegoldendurum-wheat

pastadoughis rolledoutandcutintowide,

noodle-likestripsbeforeit’sboiled.Puristswill

cookthepastainthechickpeabroth,butfora

lessstarchyresult,it canbecookedseparately.

FRIEDPASTA

Friedpastawasoriginallyadded

tomimicthetextureofmeat

duringtimesofscarcity.Tomake

it, thinstripsarehand-cutfromthe

remainingquarterofdough,and

friedin oliveoil.They’rethenpiled

ontothefinisheddishfortextural

contrast.A finalflourishofgrated

parmesanwilltakeit upa notch.

CHICKPEAS

Driedchickpeasare

soakedovernight

andsimmereduntil

tenderovera low

heatina soffritto-

basedbroth

flavouredwithgarlic

andbayleaves.

We’vealsoadded

pancettatoupthe

savourygoodness.

Achickpeaandpastadishborn

from poverty but full of richness.

Ciceri e tria

C

haracterisedascucinapovera,cicerie tira

is a masterclassintransforminghumble

ingredients.Stewedchickpeasarecombined

witha double-whammyofpasta– supple

ribbonsoffreshtagliatelleandcrispfriedstrands

cutfromthesamedough– in a unionofgrainsand

pulses.Todaythedish,whosenameis inparta legacy

ofArabruleoverApulia,standsasa symbolofSalento,

theregionthatformstheheelofItaly’sboot.Intrue

Italianstyle,therecipevariesaccordingtoregional

differencesandfamilytraditions, buthoweveryou

cutit,it’stheplayoftexturesandthesavourydepth

that are the most important. It’s a si from us.

DonPeppino’sinSydneykeepthisdishintheirback

pocketasa special.Theirtakefeaturespastashells

madewitha doughofsemolinaandchickpeaflour,

which are topped with a soffritto and crisp-fried pasta.

Find

one

Anatomy of a dish

42 GOURMET TRAVELLER

WORDS

MADELEINE

BENTLEY.

PHOTOGRAPHY

WILL

HORNER.

STYLING LISA FEATHERBY. ALL PROPS STYLIST’S OWN.