Australian Gourmet Traveller - (07)July 2019 (1)

GOURMET TRAVELLER 143

deep-friedandservedwithcoleslawina light,fluffy

bunwitha tofusauce.Theotherstaronthemenuis

theanagohotdog:deep-friedsaltwatereelservedwith

juliennedcucumberanda thickdashiandsoyglaze.

Plus,thefriescomewithclam-chowdersauce.

WhyA seriouslydeliciousfishburger.

AskforAnagodog.

WhenMon-Tues,Thu-Sunnoon-9pm;closed Wed.

Where1-9-13Higashiyama, Meguro-ku.

AHIRUSTORE

Deceptively,thisis nota storebutoneofthecity’s

mostpopularwinebars.It’sbeenattheforefrontof

thenaturalwinemovementinTokyosinceopening

morethana decadeago,andit remainsthebestchoice

fororganic,biodynamicandlo-fidrops.Runbya

brotherandsister,thebaris small– ofcourse– and

feelslikeit’salwaysbeenhere.SommelierTeruhiko

Saito,oneofthesiblingowners,is passionateand

knowledgeableabouthiswines,althoughyoumight

struggletoplumbthedepthsofthelistif yourJapanese

is notuptoscratch.Thefoodis simple,freshand

tasty,thelikesofbonitocarpacciowithpickledgreen

peppersandginger,orhouse-madesausageswith

mustardypotatoes.A menufixtureis thesaladof

octopus,avocadoandwasabi.Thecrowdis young,

livelyandfriendly,theircamaraderieperhapsforged

bythedifficultyoffindingoneofa handfulofspots

tositorstand.Bookingsaretakenbefore6.30pm

• afterthatthequeuesform.
  WhyHangwiththewinecognoscenti.
  AskforOctopussalad.
  WhenWeekdays6pm-midnight,Sat3pm-9pm; closed
  firstSatofthemonth.
  Where 1-19-4 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku.●

PathpâtissierRihito
Maruhashimaking
croissants.Above,from
left:Delifucious’sanago
hotdog;brewingcoffee
atArtlessCraftTea&
Coffee.Left,fromtop:
bonitotatakiwithgreen
olivetapenadeatAhiru
Store; Le Caberet.

Thisis aneditedextract

fromOnlyin Tokyo

byMichaelRyanand

LukeBurgess(Hardie

GrantBooks,$39.99,

hbk, out 1 July).