CONTINENTALROLL
fromTheReStore,WA
Forsomepeople,WesternAustralia’sItalian-
Australiansandwichis abouttheroll’sdelimeat
andvegetablepayload.Forothers,it’saboutthe
rollitself.“Thebreadis whatmakesit,”saysJoel
Valvasori-Pereza,chef-ownerofpastabarLulu
LaDelizia.LikemanyItalianWestAustralians,he
grewupwith“contis”andthejaw-bustingwhite
rollsthey’remadewith.“It’scrusty,chewyand
fluffyatthesametime.Whenyougetonethat
nailsthebalancebetweenallthree,there’s
nothingbetter.”Valvasori-Pereza’sgo-toorder
is prosciutto,cheeseandartichoke:a winning
combinationofsaltandacidthatevokes
memoriesofthepaniniandtramezzinifound
attrainstationsacrossItaly.
The Re Store, 231 Oxford St, LeedervilleCHARCUTERIEPLATE
fromMustWinebar,WA
WhenMustopenedinlate2001,theBeaufort
Streetwinebarsoldhalfa dozenoftheseeach
week.Twodecadeslaterandthedish– a joint
creationfromchef-patronRussellBlaikieandhis
Brittany-borncharcutierAndreMahe– is a Perth
classicthatintroducedthewesttothepleasures
ofparfait,rillettesandterrine.It alsoinspired
manychefstosharpentheirboningknives.
“[Mywife]SusanandI wouldgotoMustjust
tohavethecharcuterie,”saysMelissaPalinkas,
chefatFremantlebarYoungGeorgeand
a respectedcharcutier.“Youcouldn’tfaultany
ofit.BeingHungarian-GermanI grewupeating
a lotofcuredmeatsandpâtés,butthiswasa lot
morerefined.”
Must Winebar, 519 Beaufort St, HighgateXOPIPPIES
fromGoldenCentury,NSW
Likeanindierockerwhoreleasesa surprise
chartanthem,GoldenCentury’sXOpippies
area Sydneycultclassicthathasgoneglobal,
earninga legionofhighprofilefans,from
Momofuku’sDavidChangtoformerChinese
presidentHuJintao(whooncerequestedthe
fieryfavouritebedeliveredtoCanberraduring
a statevisit).Whetherdishedupat2pmor2am,
theritualremainsthesame:Freshpippiesare
scoopedfromthetankandpresentedtoyour
table,beforereturningjustmomentslater,
sizzlingina rich,spicysauceatopa bedof
crispvermicelli.Thetrickis toleavethemlong
enoughforthenoodlestostartturningsoggy
butbeforethesaucecoolscompletely.
Golden Century, 393 Sussex Street, Sydney➤“Thebreadis whatmakes it...
It’s crusty,chewyandfluffy
at the same time.”GOURMET TRAVELLER 51WORDS
FIONA
DONNELLY,
MICHAEL
HARDEN,
MAX
VEENHUYZEN.
ILLUSTRATIONS HANNAH BLACKMORE, JEANNEL CUNANAN, LAURA JACOBS & KELSIE WALKER.