Australian Gourmet Traveller - (08)August 2020 (1)

BANHMI

fromN.LeeBakery,Vic

Youcan’treallyclaimtobeMelburnianwithout

havingqueuedfora lunchtimeBanhMiatSmith

Street’sN.LeeBakery.Therearefancierversions

aroundtownbutthisno-frillsjointhasbeen

pumpingthemoutinCollingwoodsince 1991 and

cansetoffPavloviansalivatingatthemeresound

ofoneoftheircrisphouse-bakedwhiterollsbeing

sawedopen,readytobestuffedwithegg-mayo,

butterandpâté,porkcoldcuts,pickledcarrots

anddaikon,hoisinsauceandfreshchilliand

coriander.N.LeehasoutletsinthecityandSouth

Melbournebutit’sattheCollingwood mothership

whereyou’llearnyourstripes.

220 Smith St, Collingwood

SANDCRABLASAGNE

fromTheStoresGrocer,QLD

WhenchefGillianHirstcameupwiththerecipe

forheroriginalsandcrablasagnein1989,shehad

noideathelusciouscrabandabaloneboosted

freshpastacreationwouldevolveintooneof

Brisbane’sbest-lovedsignatures.Threedecades

on,theversionsheperfectedworkingatriverside

Italian,Il Centro,is nowsoldexclusivelythrough

WestEndprovidores,TheStores,andtributes/

interpretationsgracemenusofmanyother

restaurants.“I’mquiteproudofit,”saysHirst.“It’s

notoftenina careeryoucreatea dishthatgets

sowidelycopiedandyetis stillknown as yours.”

404 Montague Rd, West End

LAYEREDBUTTERCAKE

fromCake& Bake,QLD

Likeanyelevatedclassic,thisdecadentbutter

cakebybakingqueenJocelynHancockrelies

onitscoreingredients.Goodunsaltedbutter,

qualityeggs,sugar– anda traditionallemon

curdmadewithHancock’sowncitrus.It’s

appearedindifferentguisesoverthepast 25

years– startingoutasa retrobarcakewhen

HancockopenedJocelyn’sProvisions.AtCake

& Bake,hercurrentdigs,it’sa multi-layered

affair,deckedoutwithbuttercream,thatcan

bedressedupordowntosuitanyoccasion.

It’sa country-styleQueenslandcult classic.

58 Commercial Rd, Newstead

DAMPER& SMOKEDBUTTER

byFervor,WA

Honeyants.Bushcoconuts.Catfishbakedin

anearthoven.A mealatthisrovingnativefood

pop-upis likelytofeaturerareandunique

ingredientscarefullyandthoughtfullysourced

fromIndigenouscommunitiesaroundWestern

Australiaandtherestofthecountry.One

constant,however,is Fervor’ssignatureflatbread

andlushsmokedbutter.It wasservedatFervor’s

firsteventinMargaretRiverin 2013 andcontinues

toappearonmenustothisday.Flour,waterand

Australiananever tasted so good or comforting.

fervor.com.au

PORTUGUESETARTS
fromSaudade,SA
Saudadespecialisesinonethingandonething
only:pasteldenata.Thisperfectlyscorched
Portuguesetreatcanbeinhaledinjustthree
bites– ortwoif youhavea bigmouth– soit’s
advisabletoordera fewextra.Shatteringlycrisp
layersofgoldenpuffpastryencasesmooth,rich
custardthathasbeenblistered,almostburnt,
ontop.Thetartsarebakedandsoldonthe
sameday,noexceptions.They’rethebestyou
canfindinAdelaide,andquitepossiblythe
SouthernHemisphere.
Mitcham Square, Shop 22/119 Belair Rd, Torrens Park

POTATOCAKES

fromTheAgrarianKitchenEatery,Tas

Oneperson’spotatocakeis anotherperson’s

fritter.Orevena potatoscallop.Regardless,these

perfectlycrispmorselsfromTheAgrarianKitchen

Eateryaregoodenoughtohavewarringparties

declare“nomenclaturebedamned!”asthey

tuckin.Madefromlocalpotatoes(mostlyKing

Edwards)thesearesmallerandmoreirregularly

shapedthanyourfishandchipshopnumbersbut

possessa thrillingaddedlevelofflavour,thanks

toa sourdoughbatterandtherichlyspiced,

kasundi-likesaucethataccompanies them.

11a The Avenue, New Norfolk➤

GOURMET TRAVELLER 53