Sixyearsintohisexplorationofnativeingredientswithinafine-dining
prism,JockZonfrillokeepsdevisinginnovativecombinationsatafurious
pace.HisconfidenceliftsOrana’smodestdiningroomtoshowcase
amaverickAustralia-firstphilosophythatfeedsallthesenses,from
lemonmyrtle-scentedhandtowelstoAboriginalartworksandcomfortable
Australianhardwoodfurniture,backedbyenthusiasticandengagedservice
andapatrioticrocksoundtrack.Side-steppingconventionalrules,Orana’s
18-tastedégustationexploresanythingfromrotistuedwithflame-grilled
TommyRusmearedwithanativejerksaucetoashotofwarmmacadamia
milkwithnativethymeoil.Interlacedbetweenseveralmust-remaindishes
- cook-your-owndamperonlemonmyrtlebranchestoafinalnoteofset
buttermilkinstrawberryeucalyptusoil–thereareexcitingnewideas.An
oceanblastofpipisispresentedinabrinybrothofrubysaltbushberryand
crunchybeachsucculents.Rare’rooloinisrestedinhousekombucha,
addingaslightlyfruity,astringentedgethatbringsgreatclaritytoflavour.
Thewholejourneyisenlighteninganddelicious.LikeZonfrillo,Oranadiners
continuetodiscoveranewAustralia,onebiteatatime.
Upstairs, 285 RundleSt,
Adelaide,SA
(08) 82323444
restaurantorana.com
+ LunchFrinoon-3pm;
dinnerTue-Sat6pm-10pm
+Bookingsessential
+Licensed,BYO
+ Lunchtasting
menu$130;dinner
tastingmenu$265
+CardsAEMCVEFT
+ChefJockZonfrillo
4 Orana W V AUSTRALIAN
Visceral,sensoryandsensational,Braewarrantsapilgrimageand,ideally,
anovernightstay(preferablyinoneofitsdesignersuites)toappreciate
foundersDanHunterandJulianneBagnato’sdedicationtoregionaldining.
Setinacountry-cottagegallery,therestaurant’solive-leatherseatsare
angledtoHunter’snow-famousstage,animmaculateglass-fronted
kitchenwhereambitiousdégustationsareconjuredwithimpressive
composure.Thekitchenisonlypartofthestory:acourtyardwood
ovenbakessourdoughbreadfromHunter’sfirstwheatcropandgrills
porkjowlandabalone,skeweredontwigs,tocharry,caramelrapture.
Theproperty’svegetablegardensandorchards,pluschickensandbees,
supplyyear-roundproduce.Minimumthree-hourmenustranscendpretty
gastronomy:“tacos”ofkohlrabi-wrappedprawnheadarechallenging,
sotooadessertballofrhubarbandpistachioboundwithpig’sblood.
Whimsicalcreationssuchastheicedoysteralwaysdelight,butthere
aremanystarsinthisshow,fromlushseaurchinlobesanchoredon
whole-wheat“croissants”towickedducklivercannelloniwithDavidson’s
plum.Everythinghereisarevelation,includingtheglobalwinelistof
producerswho,likeBrae,aresustainableandartisanal.
4285 CapeOtwayRd,
Birregurra,Vic
(03) 52362226
braerestaurant.com
+ LunchFri-Mon,
noon-2pm;dinner
Thu-Sun,6.30pm-8.30pm
+Bookingsessential
+Licensed
+Dégustation$275
+CardsAEMCVEFT
+Wheelchairfriendly
+ChefDanHunter
5 Brae W V AUSTRALIAN
Cutler&Coiswearingitstenyearswell.Therenovationtwoyearsago
didn’thurt.Romanticboothsfortwo,windowspunchedintothebackwall
andsleekmetalandglasspartitionsbreathednewlifeintothemoodily
litdiningroomandtransformedthebarintoasleekandsophisticated
destinationinitself.ButtherealreasonAndrewMcConnell’sfine-diner
stillfeelsfreshisthatthemenubringsarareflexibilitytothisendof
thediningspectrum.Thechoose-your-ownadventureapproachoers
everythingfromafinelycraftedfive-coursedégustationtoexcellent
comfortfoodintheformofdry-agedsteakbuiltfortwo(fromMcConnell’s
ownbutcherMeatsmith)withhousemustardandashavedcabbageand
fennelsaladandpairedwithaglassfromanexemplarywinelistthat
favourssmallproducersfocusedonvarietalexpression.Thefoodisclever
andprettybutneverforgetsflavour,aswithalbacorecrudosharplymatched
withwasabiandfingerlime,agedMuscovyduck–servedastwodishes:
expertlyroastedinoneinstance;bakedinapieinanother–orexquisite
persimmonvacherinwithabayleafice-cream.Service,fromateamof
well-drilledprofessionals,isamongthecity’sbest,somethingthat’salso
beensaidaboutthewholeCutlerexperienceforthelastdecade.
55-57GertrudeSt,
Fitzroy,Vic
(03) 94194888
cutlerandco.com.au
+ DinnerTue-Sat
6pm-10.30pm;
Sunnoon-10.30pm
+Bookingsessential
+Licensed,bar
+ E$28-$36M$46-$55
D$18-$19;
dégustation$170
+CardsAEMCVEFT
+Privateroom
+Wheelchairfriendly
+ ChefsAndrewMcConnell
&ColinMainds
IP 6 Cutler&Co V AUSTRALIAN
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Bestpizza
Adelaide&SA
Sunny’sPizza,Sunny’sPizza,
17 SolomonSt,Adelaide,Laneway
hangoutwithunboundenergy,
that’sseriousaboutNapoli-style
pizza.Whattoorder:#05Pizza.
LostinaForest,
1203 GreenhillRd,Uraidla,
(08) 83903444 Oldstonechurch
transformedintoacarefree
alt-wineloungeandpizzaden.
Whattoorder:Banhmipizza.
Brisbane
Tartufo 1000 AnnSt,Fortitude
Valley,(07) 38521500 Full-service
Neapolitanristorantewithits
ownwoodfiredoven,turningout
perfectredandwhitesaucepizze
Whattoorder:Thespicydiavola.
Beccofino/Juliusbeccofino.
com.au;juliuspizzeria.com.au
Apairoffamily-friendlysiblings
oeringpared-backpizza.What
toorder:AtBeccofino,aCoppa;at
Julius,theMarinaraDeluxe.
Hobart
Local 52 MaroniRd,Berriedale,
(03) 62493573 Hand-stretched
doughthrownintoawoodfire
oven,andfun-flavouredsundaes.
Whattoorder:TheSpiceGirl.
Luma22/66KennedyDr,
Cambridge,(03) 62401875 With
propercrustandtherightamount
oftoppings,Lumaknowswhat’s
what.Whattoorder:PrawnStar.
Melbourne
Capitano 421 RathdonneSt,
Carlton,(03) 91348555 Cold-
fermenteddough,NY-style
texture,customisabletoppings.
Whattoorder:Classictomatoand
cheeseblingedwithpickledchilli.
Harley&Rose 572 BarklySt,
WestFootscray,(03) 96899752
Wood-firedsourdoughcrustwith
asatisfyingchewandcharwith
toppingsbothmodernand
classic.Whattoorder:Pipipizza
Kaprica 19 LincolnSqS,Carlton,
(03) 93471138 PietroBarbagallo
bringsano-nonsense,old-school
approachtoflavour,baseand
service.Whattoorder:Classic
NeapolitanMargherita.
Supermaxi 305 SaintGeorgesRd,
FitzroyNorth,(03) 94822828 Great
thin-crust,artisantoppings.What
toorder:Badabingwithpork
sausage,chilliandprovolone.
Sydney
BellaBrutta 135 KingSt,
Newtown,(02) 99225941 Clipped
menuofpizzastraightfromthe
oven,withallthecareyou’d
expectfromchefLukePowell.
Whattoorder:Marinarawith
add-your-ownanchovies.
DaMarioShop1/36Morley
Ave,Rosebery,(02) 96692242
Traditionalbaseswithcharred,
pillowycrustfromawoodoven
straightoutofNaples.Whatto
order:PizzaNapoletana.
Gigi 379 KingSt,Newtown,
(02) 95572224 Thisstoriedvenue
maybeall-vegan,buttheflavour
andbasesarenextlevel.What
toorder:Marinaratradizionale.
MatteoDowntown 20 BondSt,
Sydney,(02) 92412008 ThisCBD
spotfeelslikeasliceofMilanin
themiddleofSydney.Whatto
order:Tronchettopizza.
Perth
Monsterella 46 GranthamSt,
Wembley,(08) 92872949 Loud,
friendlyandBYO.Nowonder
Perthgoesga-gaforMonsterella.
Whattoorder:TheHunter.
KingSomm 13 KingWilliamSt,
BayswaterComeforcrisp-based
pizza;stayforalookatwhat’sin
stockattheon-sitewineshop.
Whattoorder:Thesausagepizza.
GOURMET TRAVELLER 99
PHOTOGRAPHY COLIN PAGE BRAE , LEWIS POTTER ORANA & MARK ROPER CUTLER & CO .
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