Penfoldsinsistsitswinesstandinthemostluxuriousdiningcontext,
andeachaspectofitsMagillEstateRestaurantdégustationispresented
withextraordinaryfinesseandattentiontodetail.Thediningspaceis
idyllic–achicglass-walledpavilion,sumptuouslyappointedwithleather
chairsandblackwoodtables,withapanoramaofthevineyards.The
atmosphereiscalm,withsoft-spokenstaguidingyouthrougheach
morselandglass.It’squiteaprocession.ChefScottHugginspresents
morethan 20 tastes,startingwithingeniouseggsnacks;belugacaviar
onahotpotatocake,etherealmayonnaiseonchickenskin,andtrout
roewithchivesonacrumpet.Nextcomesacoldrollofshavedsquid,
thenarosetteofsmokedceleriacandcrispgreenapple,andsublime
lambrestedinawarmoilbaththenhibachi-grilled,accompaniedby
almondpaste,asprinklingoffenugreekandgratedbottarga.Smart
Penfoldswineselectionsaresimilarlyflawless,presentingolder
vintagesintheirprimeandideallysuitedtotheflavoursofeachdish.
Luxurysuchasthiscomesatsignificantcost,butonecan’tquibble
attheexcellenceonshowhere.
78 PenfoldRd,Magill,SA
(08) 83015551
penfolds.com.au
+ LunchFri-Satnoon-2pm;
dinnerWed-Sat
6.30pm-9.30pm
+Bookingsrecommended
+Licensed,bar
+ 5-courselunch$135;
dégustation$190
+CardsAEMCVEFT
+Privateroom
+Wheelchairfriendly
+ChefScottHuggins
10 MagillEstateRestaurant V AUSTRALIAN
ConsiderlunchatVuedeMonde.Sure,it’shardtobeatthenightview
from 55 storeyshighwiththecitysketchedoutinlights,butthere’salso
somethingtobesaidforwatchingcloudsrolltowardsyouateyelevel
whilesippingvintageDomPérignonanddivingintoexquisitelyfresh
seaurchinwithcaviarandbunyanutcreamordelicatesliversofkingfish
andavocadosandwichingwasabileafandtoppedwithpalewasabi
“snow”.NewexecutivechefHughAllenbringsayouthful(he’s24)
enthusiasmtooneofMelbourne’sgreatfine-diners,onestillembracing
thehits–thecrabsnagsonatable-topbarbecue,theliquid-nitrogen-
frozenherbandpetalpalatecleanser–whiletakingadeeperdiveinto
Australianflavours.Excellentoysters,shuckedinfrontofyouatthe
kitchenbar,areteamedwithcondimentsflavouredwithlemonmyrtle,
nativepepperandfingerlime;lambgetsthesaltbushtreatment;and
therearepetitsfoursri¢ngonclassicAustralianbiscuits,including
aDavidson’splum-flavouredIcedVovo.Serviceissuperb,asisthe
priceywinelistthat’salwaysawelcomesight,dayornight.
Level55,Rialto,
525 CollinsSt,
Melbourne,Vic
(03) 96913888
vuedemonde.com.au
+ LunchThu-Sunnoon-1pm;
dinnerdaily6pm-8.45pm
+Bookingsessential
+Licensed,bar
+Dégustations$275-$310
+CardsAEDCMCVEFT
+Privateroom
+Wheelchairfriendly
+ChefHughAllen
11 VuedeMonde V AUSTRALIAN
SpecialoccasionsandBennelonggotogether.Setwithintheconcrete
bellyofanOperaHousesail,thehusheddiningroomspotlightsIndigenous
art,brass-goldTomDixonlampsandlantern-littableswithleatherchairs,
alongsideafloor-to-ceilingharbourview.It’sastellarstageforanassured
takeoneventdiningconductedinthreesuccinctacts.Theshowmight
openwithbrownbutterplayingasanuttybackbeattolemonemulsion
accompanyingjust-cookedMoretonBaybug,thenfollowwithpull-apart
confitducklegthatreachesahighernoteamidatexturalharmonyofbrittle
skin,sweetpersimmonandpickledblackfungus.Comedessert,the
signaturepavlova,meringuesailssoaring,bordersonkitschand
cloying,butiskeptincheckbyasharppassionfruitsauce.Betterto
ordertheNeenishtart,awafer-crisppastryshellfilledwithbittersweet
chocolatecutwitharaspberryrippleandcoveredwithyin-yangicing
- asophisticatedcodaexpressedwithmirror-glazeprecision.Thehefty
winelistleansstronglyAustralian,rangingfromrenownedshirazviognier
tosingle-vineyardBeechworthroussanne.Serviceisconfidentand
charming,perfectlyintunewiththewholeproduction,ensuringany
occasionatBennelongisjustthatlittlebitextra.
SydneyOperaHouse,
BennelongPoint,Sydney,
NSW,(02) 92408000
bennelong.com.au
+ LunchFri-Sun
noon-2.15pm;dinner
Sun-Thu5.30pm-10pm,
Fri-Sat5pm-10pm
+Bookingsessential
+Licensed,bar
+ Lunch2-3courses
$115-$150;dinner
3 courses$150
+CardsAEDCMCVEFT
+Wheelchairfriendly
+ ChefsPeterGilmore
&RobCockerill
12 Bennelong V AUSTRALIAN
GOURMET TRAVELLER 97
PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID GRIFFEN
ROCKPOOL BAR & GRILL, JASON LOUCAS
VUE DE MONDE, WILLIAM MEPPEM
RESTAURANT HUBERT & NIKKI TO
BENNELONG.
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