“Youcouldeatthe
best Japanesefood
outsideofJapan,
the bestItalianfood
outsideofItaly,the
bestAsianfood
outsideofVietnam
orThailand.It was
a really excitingtime
to be in Sydney.”Above:ChefTetsuya
Wakuda.Fromleft:
Chocolatestone;ocean
trout, both at Tetsuya’s.tomorecasual,bistro-styleeateriestokeepupwithSydney’s
changingdininghabits.
“Diningculturehaschangeda lot,”saysTetsuya.“People
goouttoeatmoreoftenthanbefore,buttheyeatcasually–
justoneortwodishes,thentheygohomeintheearlyevening.”
Evenat hisownrestaurant,oneofthelastbastionsof
dégustation,he’snoticedtheshift.“Nowadays,theydon’tstay
long– twohours,anhouranda half.Theyeat,andgo.Before,
you’dhavepre-dinnerdrinks,thendrinkswithdinner,and
afterwardsyou’dhavecoffee,cognac,Armagnac,digestif, and
you’dstayfora longtime.Butnottoday.Theysimplydon’tstay.”
Lookingback,Moranseestheeraascriticalinestablishing
Australia’sculinaryidentity.“Wereallystartedtogrowupinto
whatweweredoing,”hesays.It alsosetthescenefora new
generationofchefs– thosewhotrainedinthekitchensof
thegreats,whothenwentontoestablishtheirownnames.
“Wordgotaroundthatif youwenttoSydney,youworked
at Tetsuya’s,youworkedat Banc,Rockpool,MGGarage,”says
Tomlin.“Therewassomerealtalentthatcamethroughour
kitchens.JustinNorth,BrettGraham– wehadsomesuperstars.”
It wasanextraordinaryerathatproducedextraordinary
talent.“Inthosedays,youcouldgotoSydneyfora month,eatin
a greatrestauranteverydayforlunchanddinner,andexperience
somethingtotallydifferent.YoucouldeatthebestJapanesefood
outsideofJapan,thebestItalianfoodoutsideofItaly,thebest
AsianfoodoutsideofVietnamorThailand. It was a really
exciting time to be in Sydney.”●GOURMET TRAVELLER 69PHOTOGRAPHY COLE BENNETTS (ARIA), LOUISE LISTER (TETSUYA’S FOOD) & GETTY IMAGES (MG GARAGE).