A chef’s guide
Clockwisefromright:
YakitoriatBird’s
Nest;AgneschefBen
Williamson;skewers
onthebinchotanat
Bird’sNest;thebar
atDeathandTaxes.
Opposite:aerialview
ofBrisbanewiththe
EleanorSchonell
Bridgeacrossthe
Brisbane River.
French bistroclassics
ThierryGalichethasbeencooking
classicFrenchbistrofoodin Brisbane
forwhatfeelslikeforever.LaCache
à Vin,a basementrestaurantin
SpringHill,is hisrecentincarnation.
Galichethashisloyalfans;theold
corporateBrisbaneboyslovehim.
Theyfollowhimforstraight-up
Frenchclassicslikecassoulet,snail
ragoût,steakfritesandcheese
soufflé;andI’mrightbehindthem.
Thierryhasa wineimportbusiness
too,sothewinemenu– ofmostly
French labels – is sensational.Casual Korean from
a fine-diningchef
It'sa bitofa hikeouttoUnderwood,
butyou’llwanttomaketheeffortfor
ManokPark.Thechefworkedwith
meforseveralyearsatAriabefore
openingtherestaurantwithhis
family.He’stakentheskillslearned
ina fine-diningkitchenandapplied
themtoKoreanhome-stylecooking.
Orderthebeeftartarebibimbap,fried
seaweedroll,rawcrabmarinatedin
soy and the cheonggukjang stew.Regional Chinese fare
Fromthehumblebeginningsofa
garage,HappyBoyhasgrowninto
a slick,modern-Chineserestaurant.
Thehousefriedricewithshredded
roastduckandpreservedvegetables
is a must,asis theprawnomelette
withXOsauceandtheflash-fried
lambinSichuanoil.Gowitha group
andtryasmanydishesasyoucan.A new wood-fired place
Agnesis anopeningthathas
sentBrisbaneintoa buzzwithits
smoked-potatosourdough,Basque
cheesecakeandyuzudoughnuts.
Thewood-firedrestaurant,setin
anoldbrickwarehouse,wasdue
toopenjustpriortotheCovid-19
outbreak,buttheteamhadto
switchthingsupontheflywith
a pop-upbakeryandbottleshop.
Thedemandtheycreatedwiththis
interim solution is nothing short ofamazing.If it’sanythingtogoby,
Brisbaneshouldbeexcitedforwhat
chefBenWilliamson(ex-Gerard’s
Bistro)is cookingatthenewly
openedrestaurant.The best yakitori
Bird’sNestis churningoutthe
tastiestchickensticksintown.
There’sa lotoflovethatgoes
intothepreparationofthechicken
andtheexecutionis justbang-on.
Nopartofthechickengoesto
waste:it’sallhereandit’sall
good.Thehearts,livers,cartilage
andskin.Thechickenoysters,
gizzardsandtailsarea fewofmy
favourites.Justaddsakeandbeer.The best bar in town
TheGreshamhaswoneverybar
awardonecarestomentionand
forgoodreason.Thebar,setinside
a heritage-listedbuilding,quickly
establisheditselfasaninstitution
withindustryworkersandthose
intheknow.Youcangeta tinof
XXXXGoldornerdoutoverthe
wallofmorethan200 whiskies.
It’sjustsogood.Old-world cocktails
Brisbane’soldestlaneway,
BurnettLaneintheCBDhas
beenthreateningtoevolveinto
somethingcoolforquitesome
time.WiththeadditionofDeath
andTaxesit feelslikeit’sfinally
hittingitsstride.Thisis a very
grown-upcocktailbar,butnot
onethat’stoogrownuptobe
fun.Withseriousstocksoffancy
spirits,coldbeerandcapable,
willingstaff,timecanreallyget
away from you in this place.●AstoldtoJessicaRiggfor
TheLocalTongue. Formore
chef’sguidesfromaroundthe
world, seethelocaltongue.comGOURMET TRAVELLER 127