M
y nameis RosaCienfuegos.
I wasbornintheheart
of“Chilangolandia”(the
affectionateslangterm
forMexicoCity),thelargestand
mostpopulouscityintheWestern
Hemisphere.I livedinthischaotic,
noisy,vibrantandcolourfulplacewith
itswarmpeople,ancestraltraditions
andrichculturefor 25 years.Although
frenetic,I learnedtolovethecityand
thecrazinessthatwentwithit.
WhenI wasyoung,I travelled
throughoutMexicovisitingfamily
andfriends,andimmersingmyselfin
ourcountry’svasthistoryandunique
gastronomy.I learnedaboutregional
foodandcenturies-olddishesthatare
stillmadeusingtraditionalcooking
techniquesandequipment.Everyhouse
I visitedhada signaturefamilyrecipe
thatwasslightlydifferentfromthelast.
Foodis veryimportanttoMexicans.
It reconnectsustoourpast,ourfamily
andourfeelings;it touchesemotions
thatarealwaysinourhearts.It wasthis
lovethatledmetoAustraliatolivewith
myfather 10 yearsafterheleftMexico.
Thethoughtoflivinginanother
countrywithoutthefoodI heldsodear
wasa bitterpilltoswallow,soI started
tocookat home,playingwithavailable
ingredientsandcookingequipment
ina bidtoachieveauthenticMexican
flavours,andin 2018 I openedSydney’s
firsttamaleriaandMexicandeli.
Inthisbook,I sharetherecipes
thataredeartomyheart,thosethat
mydadgavetome,theonesthat
I haverefinedovermonthsandyears,
andthemostpopulardishesfrom
mytamaleria.Theserecipesare truly
Mexican and full of love.TACOSDESUADERO
Slow-cooked brisket tacos
MAKES 20“Atortillais thethin,roundcornbasethatholdsanynumberoffillings.Assoonas
a fillingis addedtoa tortillait immediatelybecomes a taco,” says Rosa Cienfuegos.150 mlvegetableoilorporklard
1 kgbeefbrisket,cutinto
8-10cmchunks
1 garlicglove,minced
150 mlfreshlysqueezedorangejuice
Tortillas,toserve(seerecipep102;
make4 x quantitiesfor 40 tortillas)
1 onion,diced,toserve
25 gmcorianderleaves,finelychopped,
toserve
2 Lebanesecucumbers,diced, to serve
Limewedges,toserve
SALSATAQUERA
300 gmfreshortinnedtomatillos
1/2 whiteonion,halved
2 clovesgarlic
1 tomato
100 mlvegetableoil
2 driedguajillochillies(seenote)
10 driedchilliesdeárbol (see note)
or Thai chillies1 Heatoilorlardina flameproof
casseroledishoverhighheat.Add
brisketandsearuntilbrownedonall
sides(10minutes).Addgarlic,orange
juice,1 tspsaltand500ml(2cups)water
andstirtocombine.Reduceheatto
medium,thencoverandcook,stirring
frequentlyuntilbrisketis verytender
(1½hours).Allowbriskettocoolslightly,
thencutintobite-sizedpieces.
2 Meanwhile,maketortillas.
3 Tomakesalsataquera,place
tomatillos,1/4 onion,garlic,tomato,
1 tbspoiland500ml(2cups)water
ina saucepan.Bringtotheboilover
highheatandcookfor3 minutes.Set
asidetocooltoroomtemperature.
4 Heat2 tbspoilina fryingpanover
lowheat.Addguajillochilliesandcook
for3 minutesonbothsides.Using
a slottedspoon,removechilliesand
addtosaucepan.Repeat this step
withchilliesdeárbol.
5 Meanwhile,finelychopremaining
1/4 onion.Transfercontentsofthepan
toa largemortarorblender,add10gm
saltandpoundwitha pestleorblend
toa chunkysalsa.Transfertoa serving
bowl;stirthroughchoppedonion.
6 Dividebrisketamong 20 doubled
tortillasandtopwithonion,coriander,
cucumberandsalsataquera.Serve
with lime wedges on the side.100 GOURMET TRAVELLER