T
hedaybeganrattlingalongthenarrow,jungle-fringedlanesofQualia
ina golfcart.Asthesunrose,I pulleduptotheprivatehelipad–
anAztec-inspiredcobblestonecircleonthewater’sedge– asa familiar
buzzhummedinthedistance.Soon,a fly-like,glass-frontedchopper
descendedtoscoopupourpartyoffourfromHamiltonIslandand
spiritusawayovertheGreatBarrierReef.
Mystomachdroppedandlurchedaswehurtledoverthesponge-
likeislands,jewelledreefsandtheblindingsweepofWhitehavenBeachbelow,before
wetoucheddownona custom-builtpontoonfloatingwithinaneasysnorkelofthe
renownedHeartReef.
YouknowHeartReef– theloveheart-shapedhoopofmarinelifethat’sbecome
a symboloftheWhitsundays.Untilrecently,itssecludedpositionmeantyoucouldonly
seeit fromtheair,butnowyoucanarrivelikeanactionhero,landingontopofa private
clubhousethatconcealsa glass-bottomedboat.Foranall-too-briefhourinthesun,we
sippedChampagneforbreakfastandsplashedaroundthepristinereef,marvellingat
thiswildlyimprobable,utterlyglamorousoutpostthat’sbeenbuilt,well,justbecause.
TheJourneytotheHearttouris oneofthoseonce-in-a-lifetimeblowoutsyouonly
thinktodoonholiday.Sooftentheartoftravelis askingwhynot?Bookthatdaytrip,
taketheupgrade,andmakethosememoriesthatwilllasta lifetime.
Lastyear,ona week-longgetawaytoBali,I decidedtoheadeasttothelauded
AmankilaresortontheblacksandbeachesbelowMountAgung.Theresortitselfwas
anunderstatedpalaceofraisedstonewalkwaysandthatched-roof pavilions, but it was
a day on the water that proved the most memorable.112 GOURMET TRAVELLER
PHOTOGRAPHY SALTY WINGS.