SIMULATIONSENPAI
BYCHASEKOJIMA
Thishigh-grade,masterfully
madesushispin-offfromSokyo
headchefChaseKojimagave
Sydneysidersa chancetoindulge
in a luxurymanymissedwhilein
lockdown.Kojimaelegantlypacked
boxeswithstripsoffattytoro,
sweetprawns,richtonguesof
urchinandfleshysnapper,all
drapedoversushirice.Maximising
Kojima’sconnectionswithspecialist
tunadealersandhisknowledgeof
theseafoodmarkets,Simulation
Senpaisetnewstandardsfor
takeawaymeals.Theluxesushi
boxesarestillgoingstrong
withdeliveriescontinuingtogo
out every Friday and Saturday.CHACOBAR’STAKE-HOMERAMEN
AsSydneywentintolockdown,ourMayissuecover
starChacoBarwasforcedtoshutitsdoors.Butit
wasn’tlongbeforeheadchefKietaAbeworked
outhowtoreproducehisfamousramenfromhome.
Freezingthebrothandsendingoutready-madenoodles
tooksometinkering,butoncemasteredtheramen
packsweresomeofthefirstandfinest out there.PIPIT’SVIETNAMESEPOP-UP
ChefBenDevlinandwifeYenTrinh’sregionalNSW
restaurantis typicallyknownforitscontemporary-
coastalcuisine,butfromMaytoAugustit transformed
intoa VietnamesehotspotcalledMrTrinh’s.The
takeawayshopdishedupMoretonBaybugbánhmì,
spannercrabriceporridge,anddoughnutsfilledwith
Vietnamesecoffeecustard.“Itfeltlikesucha stressful
whirlwindatthetime,butI didappreciatethatwhen
youhaveeverythingandnothingtolose,there’sreal
creativefreedom,”saysTrinh.“Theimportanceand
energyoflocalcommunitieswasalsomagnified.”The
temporaryVietnamesetakeawaywassolovedby
locals, it will return as a weekend pop-up in the future.LAGOONDININGEXPRESS
Allabouteaseandconvenience,
Lagoon’svacuum-sealedheat-and-
eatmeals– fromfierydandan
noodlestorichbutterchicken–
havea shelflifeofupto 15 days,
a boonforwhentheinevitable
daycameeachweekwhen
Melburniansjustcouldnotface
cookingagain.Butit wasn’tall
aboutshelflife– weekendswere
markedwithdailyspecials.A fried
chickenrollora Lagoonfave,hot
andsourshreddedpotato,gave
theweekendmeaningagain.SÁNGBYMABASADELIVERY
SángByMabasapedalledhard,
withmanagerKennyYongSoo
Sondoinghome-deliveryrounds
onanelectricbike.In thekitchen,
hisparentsJinSunSonandSeung
KeeSonmadetake-homebatches
ofKoreanspecialties,including
mandu(dumplings),jokbal(braised
pig’strotters)andkimchijjigae,
whichwerecomplementedby
beautifullyshotinstructionalvideos
(withbonusmukbangcontent)by
KennyandhispartnerYoumee
Jeon.Proofthata tinyfamily-run
restaurantcandoverybigthings.MRNILANDATHOME
JoshNilandandtheFishButchery
teamcreatedmealkitsthatwere
thehighlightofmanySydneysiders’
lockdown.Onenightit couldbe
semolinaspaghetti(madebyMitch
Orr,formerlyCicciaBella)withXO
vongole;thenext,tigerprawnand
ocean-troutsausagejambalaya.
Muchlikeathisstandalonevenue
SaintPeter,Nilandexecutedthe
dishes with finesse and flair.PIVOTING HARD
Fromtake-homeramenpackstoa drive-through
pastashop,thesequickandcleverpivotsset
high standards and paved the way for others.56 GOURMET TRAVELLER