Australian Gourmet Traveller - (12)December 2019 (1)

CHEEKYLITTLERASCAL

FormerheadchefatDoot Doot Doot Elliott

PinnisnowatBrunswick wine bar, Rascal,

dishingupbig-flavoured, often addictive

snackslikecrabtoastwith seaweed

butter,friedchickenwith hot sauce and

caviar(above),andasparagus with

house-made’nduja.The drinks list kicks

goalstoo,withthecocktail offering

specialisinginrefreshing Highballs (try the

whiteport,tonicandgrapefruit number)

andinterestingwineswith a natural bent.

341 SydneyRd,Brunswick, (03) 9114 2817

SECONDACT

Thefolksbehindeveryone’sfavouritebar,

NeighbourhoodWine,haveopenedupa

secondjoint,OldPalmLiquor,thistime

inanEastBrunswickstorefrontdecked

outin1970srumpus-roomstyle.Co-owner

andchefAlmayJordaanhasbuiltthe

menuaroundawoodfiredgrillwithdishes

likecharredcabbageslawandgrilled

zucchiniwithcannellinipurée,alongside

meatierofferings.Naturalwinesrule

andthereare 12 beersontap.133b

LygonSt,BrunswickEast,(03) 93802132

HELLO,BYRDI

LocatedinthenewEllafoodprecinctat

MelbourneCentral,Byrdiisanewbarby

award-winningbartendersLukeWhearty

andAkiNishikura.It’saminimalistspace,

allearth-colouredcurvesandtimber.

Thecocktailsaresuperb–madewith

ingredientssuchasfermentedpear

andsmokedDavidson’splum–asare

in-housefermentsmadewithhoneycomb

ormangoes.Limitedsnacksinclude

salt-and-vinegarbeansandexcellent

grilledlettucehearts.Ella,Melbourne

Central, 211 LaTrobeSt,Melbourne

AND ALSO...

lightlygrilled,tossedina dressingthat

includesbrandy,Madeira,ketchup,

mustardandsmokedpaprika,andserved

ona green-peppercornmayoaccompanied

byradicchio,witlofandslicesoftangelo.

Anotherstarturnis thebutterchicken

vol-au-vent.Thecasingis fromKateReid’s

renownedLuneCroissanterieandlives

uptothehype,retainingitsflakyintegrity

admirably.Thebutterchickenhasa hint

ofcashewcream,tandoori-likesmokiness

anda goodwhackofcardamom,and

is servedwithpickledcucumbers.

Moredishesthatshouldbeonyour

radar:anexcellentvealschnitzelwitha

tonnato-likesaucetoppedwithparsley,

friedcapersandanchovies,anda rich

beautifullysyrupytreacletartserved

witha startlinglybig-flavoured,yoghurt-

basedliquoricesorbet.

Also not to be missed

are the cocktails. As with the

food menu, the drinks list

keeps it brief but deep. There

are five cocktails, all based on

familiar drinks. The Elektra

is a super-clean life-affirming

elixir of mandarin-infused

gin stirred with vermouth

and lemon, while the version

of the often-maligned Piña

Colada, the Piña Collins,

makes it great again with

a refreshing mix of chilli-

infused rum, falernum,

coconut and pineapple.

Thewineofferingis solid.

Thereare 30 winesbythe

glassthatrunfromSouth

Africancheninandskin-

contactpinotgrisfrom

theMorningtonPeninsulatoItalian

primitivoandMcLarenValetouriga.

Andthere’sa primolistthat’sclearing

outtheoldcellarwithfairprices.

There’salsoexcellentserviceand

a kitchenthatopenslate.Somemay

mournthepassingofThePressClub

butwithallthat’sonofferat Elektra,

they’llgetoverit.

Clockwisefromabove:Elektra’s

bar;freshradicchio,chicken

liversandtangelo;Sbagliato(from

left),CosmonautandBedsheet

Companioncocktails;andhash

brown with tarama and trout roe. Elektra

72 Flinders St, Melbourne,

(03) 9677 9677,

elektradiningroom.com.au

Licensed

Open Tue-Sun 5pm-late

Prices Snacks $5-$15,

entrées $18-$22,

main courses $25-$39,

desserts $16-$22

Vegetarian Two

snacks, two entrées,

one main course

Noise Civilised

Wheelchair access Yes

MinusNomore

drinkstrolley

PlusAnewunbuttoned

versionofanoldfave

Details

Melbourne review

46 GOURMET TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRPAHY REBECCA NEWMAN 

COCKTAILS & INTERIOR & BEN JONES 

CHICKEN LIVERS & HASH BROWN.