Food & Wine USA - (02)February 2020

(Comicgek) #1

30 FEBRUARY 2020


OBSESSIONS


Seafood-and-Seaweed Chowder
ACTIVE 1 HR 15 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 15 MIN
SERVES 6 TO 8

A combination of hard cider and dried
seaweed brings a sweet, mild salinity to
the stock, making it ideal for cooking the
mussels and clams before using it as the
base of the chowder.

STOCK
3 Tbsp. canola oil
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
2 medium celery stalks, finely
chopped
11 /^2 cups (12 oz.) dry hard cider

7 cups water
11 / 2 oz. dried kelp or kombu
10 thyme sprigs
5 medium garlic cloves
3 fresh bay leaves
11 / 2 lb. mussels, scrubbed and
debearded
11 / 2 lb. littleneck clams, scrubbed
CHOWDER
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 medium-size yellow onion, finely
chopped into small cubes
4 medium russet potatoes, peeled
and cut into^3 / 4 -inch pieces
3 medium leeks, finely chopped into
small cubes

2 tsp. fine sea salt, plus more to taste
11 / 2 cups heavy cream
1 lb. skinless pollock or cod fillets,
cut into 1^1 / 2 -inch pieces
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill, plus more
for garnish
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENT
Finely ground nori


  1. Make the stock: Heat oil in a Dutch
    oven over medium. Add onion, carrots,
    and celery; cook, stirring occasionally,
    until softened and beginning to brown, 10
    to 14 minutes. Add cider; cook, stirring
    occasionally, until liquid is reduced by
    half, 12 to 15 minutes. Add 7 cups water,
    kelp, thyme, garlic, and bay leaves. Bring
    to a boil over medium-high. Reduce heat
    to medium-low; simmer, uncovered, until
    flavors meld and liquid is reduced to
    about 4^1 / 2 cups, about 40 minutes.

  2. Place mussels and clams in simmering
    stock; cover and cook until shells open, 8
    to 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon,
    transfer mussels and clams to a medium
    bowl; discard any that did not open. Let
    stand until cool enough to handle, about 5
    minutes. Remove meat from shells; dis-
    card shells, and set meat aside. Pour
    stock through a fine wire-mesh strainer
    into a heatproof bowl; discard solids.

  3. Make the chowder: Wipe Dutch oven
    clean. Add butter, and melt over medium-
    high. Add onion; cook, stirring occasion-
    ally, until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir
    in potatoes, leeks, salt, and 4^1 / 2 cups
    strained stock (discard any remaining
    stock, or reserve for another use). Let
    mixture come to a boil. Reduce heat to
    medium-low; simmer, uncovered, stirring
    occasionally, until potatoes are tender, 20
    to 25 minutes. Stir in cream; cook, undis-
    turbed, just until chowder returns to a
    simmer. Add pollock; cook, stirring occa-
    sionally, until fish is almost cooked
    through, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in reserved
    mussel and clam meat. Remove from
    heat. Let stand until mussels and clams
    are heated through and pollock flakes
    when pierced with a fork, about 5 min-
    utes. Stir in dill; season with salt to taste.
    Ladle into serving bowls; garnish with
    ground nori and dill.
    MAKE AHEAD Stock can be prepared
    through step 1 and refrigerated 3 days in
    advance.
    WINE Bright, light, saline Muscadet: 2018
    Domaine de l’Ecu Classic
    NOTE Find kelp or dried kombu on the
    international foods aisle at your local
    grocery store.

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