H
A
N
D
B
O
O
K
36 FEBRUARY 2020
ITALIAN NONNAS and their pasta recipes
are the subject of writer Vicky Benni-
son’s video series and new book Pasta
Grannies: The Secrets of Italy’s Best
Home Cooks. She shares the women’s
memories and heirloom recipes, includ-
ing how to craft perfect pasta at home.
Every nonna has her own secrets, spe-
cific to the tiny regions throughout Italy.
In the north, thick, chewy noodles go
with buttery sauces, while in the south,
olive oil–based sauces cling to spiral
shapes. Wherever on the boot grannies
are making pasta, one fact is fundamen-
tal: They do it by hand.
Making fresh pasta requires carefully
chosen tools and ingredients. A wooden
board or tabletop for mixing, kneading,
and rolling the dough is key; the porous
surface helps control the moisture of the
dough. The flour quality and type is also
important; its grind and protein content
will affect the texture of your noodles.
But most important? Get your hands
in the dough and learn by feel. So, gather
a mound of flour and crack a few eggs.
This basic recipe for fresh egg noodles
studded with bright green parsley is a
good place to start. Be sure to rest the
enriched pasta dough for the full two
hours—it is essential to achieve the per-
fect supple texture. Serve the noodles
simply buttered, or see p. 38 for a recipe
for Squash-and-Tomato Sugo, courtesy
of the nonnas. —KELSEY YOUNGMANNONNA KNOWS BEST
MAKE A WELL
Combine 1½ cups all-purpose flour and
semolina flour on a clean large wooden
work surface. Form a 6-inch well in center.
Add eggs, egg yolks, parsley, and oil to well.1
3
GATHER DOUGH
Once batter is too stiff to mix with fork, use
hands to work in remaining flour to form a
shaggy dough. Add water, 1 tablespoon at a
time, as needed to bring dough together.2
FORM A BATTER
Using a fork, beat egg mixture until com-
bined; gradually incorporate flour mixture
from inner edges of well into wet ingredients
until a smooth batter forms.4
KNEAD AND REST
Knead until dough is smooth, about 10 min-
utes. Wrap dough in plastic wrap, and let rest
at room temperature 2 hours.5
DIVIDE AND COVER
Unwrap dough, and cut dough into quarters.
Keep 3 dough portions covered while pro-
ceeding with next steps.Parsley Egg Noodles
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 40 MIN
SERVES 4 TO 613 / 4 cups all-purpose flour (about
71 / 2 oz.), divided, plus more for
dusting
11 / 2 cups semolina flour (such as
Bob’s Red Mill) (about 7^3 / 4
oz.), plus more for dusting
2 large eggs
4 large egg yolks(^1) / 4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-
leaf parsley
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 to 4 Tbsp. water
Find more from the
nonnas in Pasta
Grannies: The Secrets
of Italy’s Best Home
Cooks by Vicky
Bennison ($29.99,
Hardie Grant)