Food & Wine USA - (02)February 2020

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Nori Glory A pinch of flavor-packed dried

seaweed salt cranks up the umami volume

of your go-to weeknight fried rice.

ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I ate recently was

Rachel Yang’s nori fried rice at her restau-

rant, Joule, in Seattle. I was so bowled over

by its richness and piscine umami-ness, I

went home to Santa Cruz, California, and

worked up a version of my own.

You don’t need anything fancy for the

nori dust. Just whirl up sheets of sushi

nori with a small amount of coarse salt in

a blender. Then deploy the nori dust to add

vegetal savoriness and visual flair; it’s a

nimble seasoning and handsome garnish.

To ensure the rice grains take on flavors

and fry up to a delicate deliciousness, use

dry-ish rice. Long-grain and medium-

grain are my go-tos, but feel free to try this

with basmati or even leftover takeout rice.

Fry it in two batches to ensure the grains

cook fast and evenly. —ANDREA NGUYEN

F&W COOKS

FEBRUARY 2020

2 tsp. fish sauce

1 small scallion, sliced

1. Place^1 / 2 teaspoon salt in a blender. Tear
   or cut nori sheets into 1- to 2-inch pieces;
   add to blender. Process on medium-high
   speed until mixture resembles graphite-
   colored glitter, about 1 minute. Transfer to
   an airtight container.


2. If using hot, freshly cooked rice, spread
   in an even layer on a baking sheet lined
   with paper towels; let cool until rice is
   room temperature and grains are dry,
   about 30 minutes. If using chilled day-old
   rice, spread in an even layer on a baking
   sheet lined with paper towels; let come to
   room temperature. Gently rub rice back
   and forth between your hands to separate
   the grains. Place rice and remaining
   ingredients near stove so you can cook
   quickly.


3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch car-
   bon steel or nonstick skillet over medium.
   When oil is nearly shimmering, add garlic,
   and cook, stirring constantly, until garlic
   is toasted and fragrant, 10 to 15 seconds.
   Add shrimp, and stir to combine. Season
   with remaining^1 / 4 teaspoon salt. Cook,
   stirring constantly, until shrimp are nearly
   cooked through, 45 seconds to 1 minute.


4. Add 1^1 / 2 cups rice to skillet, and stir to
   combine. Increase heat to high. Cook,
   undisturbed, 20 seconds; stir. Repeat
   cooking-and-stirring process until a dry
   skin forms around some of the rice grains,
   2 to 3 minutes. Transfer mixture to a
   medium bowl. Repeat procedure with
   remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining
   11 / 2 cups rice. Return rice-shrimp mixture
   to skillet, and stir to combine. Drizzle with
   fish sauce, and cook, stirring constantly,
   20 seconds. (This will ensure rice grains
   are well-seasoned.)


5. Remove from heat. Stir in sliced scal-
   lion, and let stand until scallion is just
   softened, 10 to 15 seconds. Stir in 1 table-
   spoon nori dust. —ANDREA NGUYEN
   MAKE AHEAD Nori dust may be stored in
   an airtight container at room temperature
   up to 3 months.
   WINE Dry, lychee-scented
   Gewürztraminer: 2017 Tiefenbrunner
   Turmhof

Nori-and-Shrimp Fried Rice

ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 55 MIN; SERVES 2

Nori dust is a simple mixture of dried sea-

weed and salt, but its flavor is deep and

umami-rich. Use leftover dust to amplify

rich, savory flavors in soups and noodle

and rice dishes.

(^3) / 4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
5 nori sheets (about^1 / 2 oz.)
3 cups cooked long-grain white rice
(such as basmati) or medium-grain
white rice (such as Calrose)
3 Tbsp. canola oil or European-style
unsalted butter (such as Plugrá),
divided
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
5 oz. peeled and deveined raw extra-
large shrimp, patted dry with paper
towels and cut into ½-inch pieces
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