Food & Wine USA - (02)February 2020

At his Harlem restaurant, FieldTrip, JJ Johnson celebrates the place of rice in cuisines around the world with a menu built
upon heirloom strains. “Rice is culture,” Johnson says, from the Carolina Gold rice on the menu, which was a pillar of the
pre–Civil War economy and was cultivated by enslaved Africans, to the white rice in his grandmother’s brothy asopao.