100 FEBRUARY 2021
Kru Nid’s Khao Tom (Thai
Breakfast Porridge with Bacon)
PHOTO P. 99
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR; SERVES 6This comforting, creamy rice porridge
shines with punchy, savory toppings for a
hearty meal. Traditional toppings can
include Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, or
eggs, but Kat Thompson’s favorite version
of her auntie’s dish is topped with fer-
mented mustard greens and crispy bacon.1 cup uncooked jasmine rice
6 cups water
Kosher salt or fish sauce, to taste
6 (1-oz.) thick-cut maple bacon slices,
cut into 2-inch pieces
Fermented mustard greens (such
as Pigeon Brand)
Sliced scallions and sliced fresh red
Thai chiles, for garnish- Place rice in a large saucepan; add
enough water to just cover rice. Swirl
water in pan to rinse rice, and drain.
Repeat rinsing and draining process until
water runs clear, 8 to 10 times. Add 6
cups water to drained rice in saucepan;
bring to a boil over high. Stir in salt or fish
sauce to taste. Reduce heat to medium-
low; cover and cook, undisturbed, until
rice is tender and creamy, 30 minutes.
Remove from heat; let rice stand, cov-
ered, until thickened, about 10 minutes. - While rice cooks, cook bacon in a
large skillet over medium-high, turning
occasionally, until crispy, 8 to 10 minutes.
Drain on a paper towel–lined plate. - Divide porridge evenly among 6 shallow
bowls. Sprinkle evenly with cooked bacon;
garnish with fermented mustard greens,
scallions, and red Thai chiles. —ORANIJ
P R O M S ATIT
MAKE AHEAD Porridge can be refrigerated
in an airtight container up to 2 days.
WINE Richer-style French rosé: 2019
Château de Trinquevedel Tavel
NOTE Find canned fermented mustard
greens at Asian markets or online.
Hina Auntie’s Chana Masala
with Puri
PHOTO P. 91
ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN
SERVES 8 TO 10Toasting and grinding whole spices
instead of relying on pre-ground spice pow-
ders adds unparalled depth of flavor to this
spicy chickpea dish from western India.2 Tbsp. coriander seeds
2 dried whole red chiles (such as
chiles de árbol)2 whole cloves
1 (1-inch) cinnamon stick
2 Tbsp. cumin seeds, divided
1 /^4 cup ghee (or neutral oil)
1 medium-size white onion,
chopped (about 1^1 /^2 cups)
11 /^2 Tbsp. grated peeled fresh ginger
5 medium garlic cloves, grated
1 dried bay leaf
1 (8-oz.) can tomato sauce
1 tsp. amchoor (dried mango
powder) (optional)
1 / 2 tsp. kala namak (black salt)
(optional)
8 cups cooked and drained dried
chickpeas
21 /^2 cups water
Kosher salt, to taste
3 green cardamom pods, smashed
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Chopped fresh cilantro, for
garnish
Sliced red onion, sliced cucumber,
tomato wedges, lemon or lime
wedges, and sliced fresh serrano
chiles, for serving
Puri (recipe follows)- Toast coriander seeds, dried chiles,
cloves, cinnamon, and 1 tablespoon
cumin seeds in a medium skillet over
medium, stirring constantly, until fra-
grant, about 2 minutes. Remove from
heat; grind spices into powder in a spice
grinder, about 30 seconds. Set ground
spices aside. - Heat ghee in a large, heavy-bottomed
stockpot over medium. Add remain-
ing 1 tablespoon cumin seeds; cook,
stirring constantly, until seeds begin
to pop, about 30 seconds. Add white
onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until
almost translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add
ginger, garlic, and bay leaf; cook, stirring
occasionally, 2 minutes. Stir in tomato
sauce; cook, stirring occasionally, until
ghee begins to separate from tomato
mixture, about 3 minutes. Stir in ground
spices, and, if using, amchoor and kala
namak. Stir in chickpeas and 2^1 / 2 cups
water; season with kosher salt to taste.
Sprinkle with smashed cardamom. Bring
to a simmer; cook 5 minutes. Using back
of a spoon, mash about one-third of the
chickpeas. Stir in lemon juice; cook, stir-
ring occasionally, 5 minutes. Remove
from heat; let cool slightly, about 10 min-
utes. Garnish with cilantro; serve with red
onion, cucumber, tomato, lemon or lime
wedges, serrano chiles, and puri. —HINA
MODY
WINE Lively low-tannin red: 2019 Elena
Walch Schiava
NOTE Find amchoor and kala namak at
South Asian grocery stores or online.
Auntie Georgia’s
Dakgangjeong (Korean Fried
Chicken with Soy Sauce)
PHOTO P. 96
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN
SERVES 4 TO 6A sticky glaze of soy sauce and brown
sugar gets subtle heat from fresh jalape-
ños to give these fried wings the perfect
level of spice, sweetness, and salt.
Potato starch creates a shatteringly crisp
exterior on the wings and stays crunchy
for hours—even after they have cooled.2 lb. chicken wings, cut at joints,
wing tips discarded
1 cup potato starch
4 cups vegetable oil, divided
2 small jalapeños, stemmed and
thinly sliced (about^1 / 2 cup), plus
more for garnish
1 / 4 cup light brown sugar
1 / 4 cup soy sauce
5 medium garlic cloves, sliced
Chrysanthemum greens
(optional)- Working in batches, toss together
wings and starch in a large bowl to coat,
shaking off excess. Repeat process,
working in batches, to coat all wings a
second time. Place in an even layer on
wire rack set inside a large rimmed bak-
ing sheet. Let stand at room tempera-
ture until starch begins to appear wet,
about 15 minutes. - Heat 3^1 / 2 cups oil in a large high-sided
pan over medium-high until a deep-fry
thermometer registers 350°F, adjust-
ing heat as needed to maintain tem-
perature. Working in batches, fry wings,
turning often, until light golden brown,
3 to 4 minutes. Drain on a baking sheet
lined with paper towels. Working in
batches, return fried wings to hot oil; fry,
turning often, until golden brown, about
2 minutes. Return to baking sheet. - Combine jalapeños, brown sugar,
soy sauce, garlic, and remaining^1 / 2
cup oil in a medium skillet. Cook over
medium-high, stirring occasionally, until
oil begins to bubble, about 2 minutes.
Place 5 wings in sauce in skillet; toss
constantly using tongs until wings are
deep golden brown and fully coated,
about 30 seconds. Place wings on a
serving platter. Quickly repeat process
with remaining wings. Garnish with addi-
tional fresh jalapeño slices and, if using,
chrysanthemum greens.
—GEORGIA SONG
WINE Full-bodied, toasty Chardonnay:
2017 Newton Unfiltered
NOTE For a milder dish, remove seeds
from jalapeños. PHOTOGRAPHY: GERARD + BELEVENDER