Food & Wine USA - (03)March 2019

26 M A R C H 2 0 1 9

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ONE OF THE GREAT UNSUNG FOODS of my childhood were soft,

chewy flour tortillas—the kind found at everyday grocery stores.

I still adore them as an adult, though these days I prefer to make

them at home. I’ve learned the trick to foolproof flour tortillas is

using all-vegetable shortening, which yields a forgiving, easy-to-

work-with dough that remains tender, plus baking powder, which

gives them that fluffy texture that brings back memories. These

tortillas remain fresh-tasting even after a few days when stored

at room temperature. Here, I offer my go-to recipe plus three Mad

Genius ways of using them. JUSTIN CHAPPLE

That’s a Wrap Handmade flour

tortillas are the foundation for

genius weeknight recipes.

MAD GENIUS TIPS

Tex-Mex Flour Tortillas

ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 25 MIN

MAKES 2 DOZEN

Tender but sturdy, these tortillas are

just as excellent for gooey, cheese-

packed quesadillas as they are stuffed

with hearty fillings, like juicy skirt steak

or roasted vegetables.

4 cups all-purpose flour (about 17

oz.)

2 tsp. baking powder

2 tsp. kosher salt

1 / 2 cup all-vegetable shortening

(such as Crisco)

11 / 4 cups water

1. Whisk together flour, baking powder,
   and salt in a large bowl. Add shorten-
   ing; using your fingertips, incorporate
   into flour mixture until evenly com-
   bined. Add 1^1 / 4 cups water; mix with
   your hands until a sticky dough forms.
   Turn dough out onto an unfloured
   work surface. Using the heel of your
   hand, smear dough across work
   surface in a 10-inch-long layer. Using
   a bench scraper, scrape dough back
   into a ball. Repeat smearing and
   scraping process until dough
   becomes smooth and slightly sticky,
   about 5 minutes. Cut dough into 24
   pieces (about 1^1 / 4 ounces each). Roll
   dough pieces into balls, and transfer
   to a baking sheet. Cover with plastic
   wrap; let stand at room temperature
   30 minutes.


2. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over
   high until smoking; reduce heat to
   medium-low. Working with one dough
   ball at a time, roll dough out on an
   unfloured work surface to a very thin
   71 / 2 -inch circle. (Dough will stick to
   work surface.) Carefully peel dough off
   work surface; transfer to hot skillet.
   Cook until lightly browned in spots
   and pliable, 20 to 30 seconds per
   side. Wrap tortillas in a kitchen towel.
   Repeat process with remaining
   dough balls.
   MAKE AHEAD Tortillas can be stored
   in a ziplock plastic bag at room
   temperature up to 3 days. Warm on
   a griddle before serving.

MAD GENIUS TIP

Work all-vegetable

shortening into flour

with your fingertips to

make the tortillas ten-

der but chewy.

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photography by GREG DUPREE