Food & Wine USA - (03)March 2019

94 MARCH 2019

THE IMPORTER from p. 80 THE RINGLEADER from p. 89

Iced Oysters with Bitter Lemon

Vinaigrette

PHOTO P. 83

TOTAL 20 MIN; SERVES 4

Keepwell’s bitter lemon vinegar makes a

tart, clean accompaniment to oysters.

Spicebush berries, sometimes called

Appalachian allspice, have a lemony,

piney flavor. Order them from

integrationacres.com, and use any extra

to muddle in the bottom of a gin and tonic.

1 / 4 cup bitter lemon vinegar (such as

Keepwell)

1 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot

1 / 4 tsp. dried spicebush berries or

black peppercorns, finely crushed

12 oysters (such as Chesapeake Bay

Orchard Point), freshly shucked on

the half shell

Stir together vinegar, shallot, and crushed

spicebush berries in a small bowl. Serve

oysters over ice with vinaigrette.

WINE Crisp, minerally Muscadet: 2017

Pierre Luneau-Papin Clos des Allées

Miso-Crusted Pork Roast

with Apples

PHOTO P. 86

ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 11 HR 50 MIN

SERVES 6

This pork roast is as effortless as it is

impressive. Gjerde uses White Rose Miso’s

sweet potato miso, available at specialty

food stores in the Washington, D.C., area;

substitute widely available red miso.

1 / 2 cup sweet potato miso (such as

White Rose Miso) or red miso

3 Tbsp. canola oil

2 Tbsp. granulated sugar

1 tsp. fish pepper flakes or crushed

red pepper

1 (2-lb.) boneless pork shoulder

2 medium yellow onions, cut

crosswise into^1 / 2 -inch-thick slices

4 medium Pink Lady apples, cut into

(^3) / 4 -inch wedges
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

4. Bake in preheated oven until set, about
   25 minutes. Increase oven temperature to
   broil, and broil until muffins are golden
   brown, about 2 minutes. Let muffins cool
   in pan on a wire rack 10 minutes. Remove
   from pan, and serve warm or at room
   temperature.

Spiced Lamb Kebabs with

Fresh Herbs

PHOTO P. 79

ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 25 MIN

SERVES 8

“These pan-fried lamb and chickpea

patties are an ode to my Gujarati Muslim

heritage on my father’s side,” Javeri Kadri

says. They’re stuffed with onions and

herbs, then cooked and served with big

scoops of fresh green chutney and yogurt.

To make them ahead of time, prepare the

kebabs through step 4, then freeze for up

to 1 month, thawing fully before proceed-

ing. You can find chana dal and asafoetida

powder in Indian markets or online.

1 lb. ground lamb

1 cup dried chana dal (split

chickpeas)

1 cup water

3 Tbsp. ghee, divided

1 tsp. finely grated garlic (about 1

large garlic clove)

1 tsp. finely grated peeled fresh

ginger (from 1 [^1 / 2 -inch] piece)

1 tsp. ancho chile powder

1 tsp. ground coriander

1 tsp. cumin seeds

1 tsp. ground turmeric

1 /^4 tsp. asafoetida powder

1 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided

1 medium yellow onion, finely

chopped

2 serrano chiles, stemmed and finely

chopped

2 /^3 cup packed fresh mint leaves, finely

chopped

1 / 3 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves,

finely chopped

Plain whole-milk yogurt

Spicy Green Chutney (recipe p. 80)

1. Stir together lamb, chana dal, and 1 cup
   water in a 6-quart programmable electric
   pressure cooker (such as an Instant Pot).
   Close and lock lid. Turn steam release
   handle to “Sealing” position. Press “Man-
   ual,” select “High Pressure,” and program
   8 minutes pressure-cooking time. When
   cooking time and time for float valve to
   drop are complete, turn pressure cooker
   off. Carefully open using the natural pres-
   sure release.


2. Heat 1 tablespoon ghee in a small
   saucepan over low. Add garlic, ginger,
   chile powder, coriander, cumin seeds,
   turmeric, and asafoetida powder; stir
   with a spatula to combine. Cook until fra-
   grant, about 20 seconds; transfer mixture
   to a food processor. Add cooked lamb
   mixture and 1^1 / 2 teaspoons salt; process
   until texture is mostly smooth, about 2
   minutes, stopping to stir and scrape
   down sides as needed. Transfer mixture
   to a large bowl, and cover with plastic
   wrap until ready to use.


3. Stir together onion, chiles, mint, cilan-
   tro, and remaining 1^1 / 2 teaspoons salt in a
   medium bowl.


4. Shape lamb mixture into 16 (3-inch-
   wide) patties (about 3 tablespoons each).
   Make a 2-inch-wide,^1 / 2 -inch-deep circular
   indentation in center of each patty. Place
   1 heaping teaspoon onion mixture in cen-
   ter of each patty. Press lamb mixture
   together, sealing filling inside, and shape
   into a ball. Flatten slightly into a^3 / 4 -inch-
   thick patty. Place patties on a baking
   sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and chill at
   least 30 minutes or up to 1 day. (Alterna-
   tively, freeze patties on a baking sheet.
   Transfer frozen patties to ziplock plastic
   freezer bags, and freeze up to 1 month.
   Let thaw completely in refrigerator
   before cooking.)


5. Working in 3 batches, add 2 teaspoons
   ghee to a large nonstick skillet. Heat over
   high until bubbling but not smoking. Add
   6 patties, and cook until fully browned on
   one side, 2 minutes to 2 minutes and 30
   seconds. Flip and cook until browned,
   about 2 minutes. Transfer to a platter
   lined with paper towels to drain slightly.
   Serve with yogurt and green chutney.
   NOTE To make without a pressure cooker,
   stir together lamb, chana dal, and 3 cups
   water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a
   boil over high, reduce heat to low, and
   simmer until dal is just tender, about 40
   minutes. Drain well. Proceed with recipe
   in step 2.

sfouf (turmeric-sesame tea cakes)

continued