Food & Wine USA - (04)April 2019

(Comicgek) #1

90 APRIL 2019


Braised Lamb with Garlic, Wine,
and Lovage
PHOTO AT RIGHT
ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN
SERVES 6

This simple stovetop braise yields fork-
tender lamb with little hands-on effort.
Lovage, a perennial herb that smells and
tastes similar to celery, is sometimes
available at specialty grocery stores or
farmers markets; celery leaves make a
fine substitute.

1 tsp. coriander seeds

(^1) / 2 tsp. black peppercorns
4 whole cloves
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 (2-lb.) boneless lamb shoulder, cut
into 1^1 / 2 -inch pieces
1 medium (10-oz.) white onion, thinly
sliced (about 2^1 /^2 cups)
2 tsp. kosher salt
(^1) / 2 cup dry white wine
(^1) / (^4) cup chopped fresh lovage leaves or
celery leaves, divided
6 fresh sage leaves
2 fresh bay leaves
1 garlic clove, smashed
13 / 4 cups tomato passata or strained
tomatoes
6 (2^1 / 2 -oz.) day-old bread slices



  1. Roughly grind coriander seeds, pepper-
    corns, and cloves with a mortar and pes-
    tle; set aside. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a
    Dutch oven over medium-high. Add lamb
    pieces in a single layer, working in batches
    if needed, and cook, turning occasionally,
    until well browned on all sides, about 8
    minutes. Add onion, salt, and coriander
    mixture. Cook, stirring occasionally, until
    spices are fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add
    wine, 1 tablespoon lovage, sage leaves,
    bay leaves, and garlic. Cook, stirring
    occasionally, until liquid is slightly
    reduced, about 2 minutes. Stir in passata,
    and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to
    medium-low, cover, and simmer until
    lamb is tender, about 2 hours.

  2. Preheat broiler to high with rack in mid-
    dle of oven. Uncover lamb, and cook over
    medium-low until sauce is thickened,
    about 20 minutes, skimming off fat as
    needed. Brush 1 side of bread slices
    evenly with remaining 2 tablespoons oil,
    and place on a baking sheet. Broil in


preheated oven until lightly toasted,
about 6 minutes. Serve braised lamb and
sauce over bread; sprinkle with remaining
3 tablespoons lovage.
WINE Smoky, juicy Lazio red: 2015
Cantine Riccardi Reale Collepazzo

Sautéed Chicories
with Chile Oil
PHOTO AT RIGHT
TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 6

A splash of vinegar and a dash of salt help
balance the bitterness of the chicories.

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 lb. mixed chicories (such as
escarole, frisée, Belgian endive, and
Treviso), trimmed and cut into 2^1 / 2 -
inch pieces (about 12 cups), divided
3 garlic cloves, smashed, divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
Chile Oil (recipe follows)

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet
over medium-high. Add one-third of the
chicories (about 4 cups) and 1 garlic
clove, and cook, undisturbed, 30 sec-
onds. Sprinkle with^1 / 4 teaspoon salt, and
cook, tossing often, until slightly wilted,
about 30 seconds. Transfer to a large
bowl. Repeat 2 more times with remaining
2 tablespoons oil, remaining chicories,
remaining 2 garlic cloves, and^1 / 2 teaspoon
salt. Gently toss chicories with vinegar
and remaining^1 / 4 teaspoon salt. Transfer
to a serving platter, and drizzle with 2 tea-
spoons Chile Oil, or more to taste. Serve
immediately.

Chile Oil
PHOTO AT RIGHT
ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN; MAKES
1 CUP

Drizzle leftover chile oil over salad or pasta
for an extra kick of flavor.

6 dried cayenne chiles
1 cup olive oil

Place chiles in a small saucepan, and cook
over medium, stirring occasionally, until
toasted and fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Add oil, and simmer, stirring occasionally,
until chiles are dark red and stop popping,
about 4 minutes. Remove from heat, and
let cool completely, about 1 hour. Store
chile oil in an airtight glass container in
refrigerator up to 5 days.

A meal on the road at Osteria di Suvereto da I’Ciocio, a restaurant in Suvereto, Tuscany.
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