90 APRIL 2019
Braised Lamb with Garlic, Wine,
and Lovage
PHOTO AT RIGHT
ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN
SERVES 6
This simple stovetop braise yields fork-
tender lamb with little hands-on effort.
Lovage, a perennial herb that smells and
tastes similar to celery, is sometimes
available at specialty grocery stores or
farmers markets; celery leaves make a
fine substitute.
1 tsp. coriander seeds
(^1) / 2 tsp. black peppercorns
4 whole cloves
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 (2-lb.) boneless lamb shoulder, cut
into 1^1 / 2 -inch pieces
1 medium (10-oz.) white onion, thinly
sliced (about 2^1 /^2 cups)
2 tsp. kosher salt
(^1) / 2 cup dry white wine
(^1) / (^4) cup chopped fresh lovage leaves or
celery leaves, divided
6 fresh sage leaves
2 fresh bay leaves
1 garlic clove, smashed
13 / 4 cups tomato passata or strained
tomatoes
6 (2^1 / 2 -oz.) day-old bread slices
- Roughly grind coriander seeds, pepper-
corns, and cloves with a mortar and pes-
tle; set aside. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a
Dutch oven over medium-high. Add lamb
pieces in a single layer, working in batches
if needed, and cook, turning occasionally,
until well browned on all sides, about 8
minutes. Add onion, salt, and coriander
mixture. Cook, stirring occasionally, until
spices are fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add
wine, 1 tablespoon lovage, sage leaves,
bay leaves, and garlic. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until liquid is slightly
reduced, about 2 minutes. Stir in passata,
and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to
medium-low, cover, and simmer until
lamb is tender, about 2 hours. - Preheat broiler to high with rack in mid-
dle of oven. Uncover lamb, and cook over
medium-low until sauce is thickened,
about 20 minutes, skimming off fat as
needed. Brush 1 side of bread slices
evenly with remaining 2 tablespoons oil,
and place on a baking sheet. Broil in
preheated oven until lightly toasted,
about 6 minutes. Serve braised lamb and
sauce over bread; sprinkle with remaining
3 tablespoons lovage.
WINE Smoky, juicy Lazio red: 2015
Cantine Riccardi Reale Collepazzo
Sautéed Chicories
with Chile Oil
PHOTO AT RIGHT
TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 6
A splash of vinegar and a dash of salt help
balance the bitterness of the chicories.
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 lb. mixed chicories (such as
escarole, frisée, Belgian endive, and
Treviso), trimmed and cut into 2^1 / 2 -
inch pieces (about 12 cups), divided
3 garlic cloves, smashed, divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
Chile Oil (recipe follows)
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet
over medium-high. Add one-third of the
chicories (about 4 cups) and 1 garlic
clove, and cook, undisturbed, 30 sec-
onds. Sprinkle with^1 / 4 teaspoon salt, and
cook, tossing often, until slightly wilted,
about 30 seconds. Transfer to a large
bowl. Repeat 2 more times with remaining
2 tablespoons oil, remaining chicories,
remaining 2 garlic cloves, and^1 / 2 teaspoon
salt. Gently toss chicories with vinegar
and remaining^1 / 4 teaspoon salt. Transfer
to a serving platter, and drizzle with 2 tea-
spoons Chile Oil, or more to taste. Serve
immediately.
Chile Oil
PHOTO AT RIGHT
ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN; MAKES
1 CUP
Drizzle leftover chile oil over salad or pasta
for an extra kick of flavor.
6 dried cayenne chiles
1 cup olive oil
Place chiles in a small saucepan, and cook
over medium, stirring occasionally, until
toasted and fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Add oil, and simmer, stirring occasionally,
until chiles are dark red and stop popping,
about 4 minutes. Remove from heat, and
let cool completely, about 1 hour. Store
chile oil in an airtight glass container in
refrigerator up to 5 days.
A meal on the road at Osteria di Suvereto da I’Ciocio, a restaurant in Suvereto, Tuscany.