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18 APRIL 2020
THE VAST MAJORITY OF OLIVE OIL in the U.S. is imported from Europe, but California-grown
varieties are revolutionizing the industry in both taste and style. Since California’s soil is so
versatile, nearly any kind of olive can grow there; this makes the blending options nearly
boundless and the finished products diverse and unique. Golden State olive oils now make
up 5% of American olive oil consumption, and that number is expected to keep growing. We
turned to Nicholas Coleman, cofounder of the premium olive oil subscription service Grove
and Vine and previously the chief oleologist at Eataly, to help us evaluate 11 new California olive
oils. At right, we share our top five.THE DISRUPTER
Brightland’s Awake, an olive
oil made with handpicked
heirloom Coratina olives,
has a peppery kick—great
drizzled into sauces and to
finish stews. We also love the
sleek, UV-proof packaging.
($37, brightland.co)THE FINISHER
The robustness of Enzo’s
bold olive oil, with its pep-
pery, vegetal flavor and nose
of arugula, makes it the
ultimate choice for a salad
dressing. We also reach for
this oil to finish roasted veg-
etables, soups, and grilled
bread. ($13, enzostable.com)THE GO-TO GIFT
Pineapple Collaborative’s
oil is made with a blend of
Koroneiki, Arbequina, and
Arbosana olives, giving this
product a fresh, clean flavor
that works just as well in
zesty pesto as it does sugary
cakes. The white-, salmon-,
and mustard-colored tins
are perfect for gifting or
leaving out on your kitchen
c o u n te r. ($28, pineapple
collaborative.com)THE WORKHORSE
Cobram Estate has olive
groves on two hemispheres,
in California and Australia,
which allows them to harvest
olives twice a year, yielding
the freshest oil possible.
Cobram Estate California
Select is decadent and bal-
anced, with a hint of mint
on the tongue. It has great
flavor at a great price and is
versatile enough to be used
for everything from cooking
to baking to finishing a dish.
($13, cobramestate.com)THE STANDARD-BEARER
The McEvoy family has been
honing their craft since
1990, and McEvoy Ranch’s
Traditional Blend Extra
Virgin Olive Oil is made with
seven Italian olive varieties.
To us, it smells like freshly
cut grass—sweet and herba-
ceous—and tastes buttery
and rich. This oil is best used
in a setting that allows its
sharp flavor to shine: driz-
zled over pasta, topping a
pizza, or as a flavor booster
for crudité. ($30, mcevoy
ra n c h.co m)Liquid Gold Our editors taste the best olive oilsthat California has to offer. By Nina FriendTASTE TEST
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