118 MAY 2020
FRIULI, FOREVER from p. 115Creamy Polenta with Three-
Cheese Fonduta
PHOTO P. 113
ACTIVE 1 HR 10 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 35 MIN
SERVES 4Toc’ in braide is a luxuriously rich mixture of
thick, sweet polenta and three cheeses:
whole-milk ricotta, crumbly Gorgonzola, and
nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano. Thyme-infused
brown butter adds a woodsy, nutty bite to
this indulgent side dish.4 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rinds
61 / 2 cups water, divided
1 cup coarse yellow polenta (such as
Anson Mills Coarse Rustic Polenta
Integrale) (about 5^1 / 4 oz.)
21 / 2 tsp. kosher salt
1 / 2 cup high-quality whole-milk ricotta
cheese (such as Galbani)
1 / 2 oz. Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
(about 2 Tbsp.)
1 /^4 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese,
finely grated on a Microplane (about 2
Tbsp.)
3 Tbsp. heavy cream, divided
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 thyme sprigs- Wrap cheese rinds together in cheese-
cloth; tie securely using kitchen twine. Place
wrapped rinds and 6 cups water in a large
saucepan; bring to a boil over medium-high.
Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, uncov-
ered, until reduced to about 4 cups, about
30 minutes. Remove wrapped rinds; discard. - While cheese mixture simmers, heat
polenta in a large skillet over medium-high.
Cook, stirring often, until polenta is lightly
toasted and smells nutty, 5 to 6 minutes.
Transfer polenta to a medium bowl; reserve 1
teaspoon polenta for garnish. Set aside. - Return cheese-infused water to a boil over
medium-high. Slowly add toasted polenta,
whisking constantly to prevent clumping.
Cook, whisking constantly, until polenta
starts to thicken and bubble, 3 to 4 min-
utes. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook,
whisking vigorously and scraping bottom of
pan every 5 to 10 minutes, until polenta is
thickened and tender, 50 minutes to 1 hour,
whisking in up to^1 / 2 cup remaining water as
needed to loosen. Whisk in salt.
LITHUANIAN LOVE LETTER from p. 101Roasted Carrot Soup with Fresh
Cheese and Black Bread
PHOTO P. 98
ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN
SERVES 4Baltic black bread, traditionally made with
rye flour and sourdough starter, is dense and
flavorful with a tight crumb; pumpernickel
and rye bread are good substitutes. A sprin-
kle of homemade farmer’s cheese and fresh
herbs lighten up each bowl.2 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch
pieces
2 Tbsp. canola oil, divided
11 / 4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 /^4 tsp. cumin seeds
1 / 4 tsp. caraway seeds
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
1 qt. best-quality vegetable broth (such
as Zoup!)
3 Tbsp. sour cream
5 oz. Baltic black bread, heavy dark rye
bread, or pumpernickel bread, torn
into bite-size pieces (about 2^1 /^2 cups)
1 / 4 tsp. kosher salt
1 / 2 cup Fresh Farmer’s Cheese (recipe
follows) or crumbled store-bought
farmer’s cheese
1 / 2 cup roughly torn fresh dill
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh chives- Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss together car-
rots, 1 tablespoon oil, 1 teaspoon salt, cumin
seeds, and caraway seeds in a large bowl
until evenly coated. Spread carrots in an even
layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with
aluminum foil; roast in preheated oven until
very tender and browned in spots, about 1
hour, stirring halfway through roasting. - Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large sauce-
pan over medium. Add onion, and cook, stir-
ring often, until softened, about 6 minutes.
Stir in roasted carrots and broth, and bring
to a simmer over medium-high. Reduce heat
to medium-low, and gently simmer until
flavors meld, about 15 minutes. Transfer
to a blender; add sour cream and remain-
ing^1 / 4 teaspoon salt. Secure lid on blender,
and remove center piece to allow steam to
escape. Place a clean towel over opening.
Process until soup has a smooth and silky
consistency, about 1 minute and 30 seconds.
Cover to keep warm.- Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter and
remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet
over low. Add bread pieces, and cook, stir-
ring occasionally, until bread is crisp on the
outside and slightly chewy in center, 10 to
12 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl, and
sprinkle with salt. - Divide soup among 4 warm shallow bowls.
Top each bowl with 2 tablespoons bread and
2 tablespoons crumbled cheese. Sprinkle
servings evenly with dill and chives.
MAKE AHEAD Toasted bread can be stored in
an airtight container at room temperature
for up to 1 day.WINE Skin-contact Sicilian white wine: 2018
Azienda Agricola Cos Pithos BiancoFresh Farmer’s Cheese
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 45 MIN
MAKES 2 CUPSMore tender and fluffy than store-bought
farmer’s cheese, this easy-to-make fresh ver-
sion can be prepared up to three days ahead
of time. Leftovers are delicious spread on
toast with jam or mixed with herbs for a
bright dip.8 cups best-quality full-cream whole
milk
3 cups buttermilk- Gently heat whole milk in a large heavy-
bottomed saucepan over medium to about
170°F, 12 to 15 minutes, stirring often so bot-
tom doesn’t scorch. Stir in buttermilk; cook,
gently stirring, until mixture starts to become
opaque and white curds start to come
together, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn off heat, and let
stand on hot burner, undisturbed, 10 minutes. - Line a fine wire-mesh strainer with 3 lay-
ers of damp cheesecloth; set strainer over a
medium bowl. Using a slotted spoon, skim
warm curds into cheesecloth-lined strainer.
Reserve 2 tablespoons whey from pan; dis-
card remaining whey. Let curds stand 10 min-
utes to allow excess whey to drain off; discard
excess whey. Bring corners of cheesecloth
together, and twist together tightly to remove
as much whey as possible; discard whey. - Tie loose ends of cheesecloth around
the handle of a wooden spoon, creating a
bundle. Suspend bundle over a bowl deep
enough to allow at least 1 inch between
bottom of cheesecloth bundle and base of
bowl. Let drain 45 minutes; discard whey.
(Alternatively, place bundle in a fine wire-
mesh strainer set inside a medium bowl; let
drain 45 minutes.) - Transfer drained cheese curds to a non-
metallic bowl, and break up until crumbled.
MAKE AHEAD Cheese can be covered and
stored in refrigerator up to 3 days.0520_Runover.indd 118 FINAL 3/18/20 11:58 AM