80 MAY 2020
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2018 RAFAEL PALACIOS
LOURO VALDEORRAS
GODELLO ($25)
Rafael Palacios’ As Sortes white
is probably the benchmark for
great Godello, but it’s pricey. To
get a sense of his skill, look for
this more affordable—yet
exquisitely balanced—bottling.2018 CASAL DE ARMçN EIRA
DOS MOUROS RIBEIRO ($24)
Terraced vineyards high above
the Avia River in the Galician
Ribeiro region are the source
for the Treixadura grapes that
go into this generously textured
white. Its flavors recall golden
apples and ripe pears.2017 RAòL PƒREZ ULTREIA
BIERZO GODELLO ($25)
Raœl Pérez’s top wines sell for
around $80, but this bottling
is no less impressive. Rich, full
of pear and melon fruit, with a
hint of pine-like herbs and white
pepper, it’s a stellar wine for a
modest price.2018 BUIL & GINƒ JOAN GINƒ
BLANC ($32)
This mostly Garnacha Blanca
blend from the Priorat mingles
creamy, sweet citrus notes
(think tangerine) and melon
flavors. It’s a big wine—most
Priorat whites are—but the juicy
acidity keeps it fresh.2015 MARQUƒS DE
MURRIETA CAPELLANêA
RIOJA BLANCO ($30)
Deep gold in hue, this graceful
white comes from one of the
greatest names in Rioja. Ripe
pears and almonds, a toasty
oak note—it’s superb now and
should also age well for years.2018 PAZO SE„ORANS
ALBARI„O ($25)
Flinty, citrusy complexity is
the hallmark of this excellent
Albariño, from one of the Rías
Baixas region’s benchmark
producers. Serve it as they do
there, with a platter of raw
oysters just pulled from the sea.2017 VI„A MEIN RIBEIRO
($26)
This Treixadura-predominant
blend walks the perfect line
between savory and fruity: It’s
equally suggestive of stoni-
ness and spice as it is of white
peaches and apples straight
from the orchard.2017 PALACIOS REMONDO
PLçCET DE VALTOMELLOSO
RIOJA BLANCO ($45)
Hints of smoky oak play over
the lime-accented acidity and
green-apple flavors of this
streamlined white Rioja from
Alvaro Palacios, one of Spain’s
greatest winemakers.FW_0520_BottleService.indd 80 FINAL 3/17/20 3:46 PM