30 OCTOBER 2020
HANDBOOK- Attach bowl and dough hook to stand
mixer. Beat on medium-low speed until
dough comes together and forms a smooth
ball, about 1 minute. Dough should be quite
firm and may be slightly tacky but not sticky.
If dough is sticky, add flour, 2 tablespoons at
a time, and beat until dough is smooth. If
dough is too dry, add water, 1 teaspoon at a
time, and beat until smooth. - Increase mixer speed to medium-high,
and beat until dough is smooth and elastic, 5
to 7 minutes. Transfer dough to a large bowl
greased with cooking spray; turn to coat.
Cover with plastic wrap, and let dough rise in
refrigerator until almost doubled in size, at
least 8 hours or up to 24 hours. - While dough rises, preheat oven to 300°F.
Spread baking soda in a small glass or
ceramic baking dish, and bake in preheated
oven 1 hour. Remove from oven, and let cool
completely, about 10 minutes. Store cooled
baking soda in an airtight container at room
temperature until ready to use. - Turn dough out onto an unfloured work
surface, and firmly press down to deflate.
Cut dough into 8 portions. Working with 1
portion at a time and keeping remaining
dough covered, pat dough down with your
fingertips to form a 3^1 / 2 - by 5^1 / 2 -inch rectan-
gle. Beginning on one long side, roll dough
up tightly, forming a loaf shape; pinch seam
together on bottom of loaf. - Shape each loaf into a rope by rolling it
against the work surface with your palms,
applying mild pressure and working from the
center outward. (If you need more friction,
moisten work surface with a few drops of
water, dispersing it evenly with your hands.)
Continue rolling until dough rope is 14 to 16
inches long and begins to shrink back
toward middle. Set dough rope aside, and
cover. Repeat process with remaining 7
dough pieces.
7. Line 2 large baking sheets with parch-
ment paper. Return first rolled dough rope
to work surface, and continue rolling rope
to a length of about 30 inches, leaving
middle about 1 inch in diameter and taper-
ing ends by applying a little more pressure
as you work your way out. Shape 30-inch
dough rope into a U shape, positioning
ends of the U pointing away from you.
Holding one end in each hand, lift and
cross ends over each other about 5 inches
down from ends. Cross ends again, pass-
ing ends to opposite hands, creating a
twist in the dough.
8. Holding ends and maintaining twist, fold
ends toward bottom of U. Allowing for a^1 / 4
inch overhang on each side, press ends
into bottom of U at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock.
Gently transfer shaped pretzel to prepared
baking sheet; cover loosely with plastic
wrap. Repeat with remaining dough ropes,
working in the order in which they were
rolled, spacing shaped pretzels 1 inch
apart on prepared baking sheets.
9. Let covered pretzels rise in a warm place
until puffy and increased in size by half, 30
to 45 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to
500°F with racks in upper third and lower
third positions. Stir together egg and milk;
set egg wash aside.
10. Place baked baking soda in a wide
stainless steel (nonreactive) saucepan,
and add 6 cups tap water. With range hood
vent running on high, bring mixture to a
gentle simmer over high, stirring gently to
dissolve baking soda. Reduce heat to low,
and maintain a very gentle simmer. Using a
large skimmer or fish spatula, gently place
1 or 2 pretzels in alkaline water. Cook 20
seconds, carefully flipping after 10 sec-
onds. Using skimmer, lift pretzels from
alkaline water, allowing excess to drip off,
and transfer to a parchment paper–lined
baking sheet, placing at least 1 inch apart.
(Pretzels will be wrinkly.)
11. Wearing rubber gloves, reshape pret-
zels on baking sheet as needed. Repeat
with remaining pretzels. Quickly brush
tops and sides of pretzels with egg wash,
and sprinkle with flaky sea salt.
12. Immediately bake pretzels at 500°F
until deep mahogany in color, 9 to 12 min-
utes, rotating pans from front to back and
top to bottom halfway through baking
time. Transfer pretzels to wire racks, and
let cool about 10 minutes before serving.
—ANDREA SLONECKER
MAKE AHEAD Baking soda can be baked up
to 6 weeks ahead.BEER Toasty, bready doppelbock beer:
Ayinger CelebratorNOTE Barley malt syrup can be purchased
at Whole Foods or online.Bavarian Soft Pretzels
TOTAL 1 HR 50 MIN, PLUS 8 HR
REFRIGERATION; MAKES 8 PRETZELSForming these pretzels can seem tricky at
first, but once you have the dough ropes in
your hands, it feels effortless. Follow the
instructions for handling the baking soda
solution with care; it’s much safer than lye,
but it’s best to avoid contact with your skin
and eyes. Just prepare accordingly: Wear
gloves, open a window, and turn on the
range hood vent to whisk away the steam.
These pretzels are best the day they’re
made, preferably hot out of the oven.3 / 4 cup warm water (100°F to 115°F),
plus more as needed
1 (^1 /^4 -oz.) envelope active dry yeast
(2^1 / 4 tsp.)
11 /^2 Tbsp. barley malt syrup
43 / 4 cups unbleached bread flour (about
213 / 4 oz.), plus more as needed for
dough
3 / 4 cup lager beer or pilsner beer
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed, at
room temperature
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
Cooking spray
1 /^3 cup baking soda
1 large egg, beaten
1 Tbsp. whole milk
6 cups tap water, plus more as
needed for dough
Flaky sea salt- Place^3 / 4 cup warm water in bowl of a
stand mixer; sprinkle with yeast. Stir in
barley malt syrup until dissolved. Let mix-
ture stand until yeast is foamy, 5 to 7 min-
utes. Add flour, beer, butter, and kosher
salt; using a wooden spoon or rubber spat-
ula, stir until a shaggy dough forms.