2019-07-01_Southern_Living

(Nancy Kaufman) #1

T HE


F I S H


MASTER


ELIHUE WASHINGTON JR.


LITTLE ROCK, AR


Molassis and Joe Watson
first sold sandwiches out
of their home around 1905.
Their business eventually
became a restaurant called
Lassis Inn. During the 1957
desegregation of Central
High School, Daisy Bates
and other civil rights leaders
held meetings there. Current
owner Elihue Washington
Jr. knows that history, and
he recognizes that a good
restaurant does more than
feed; it sustains. Here, warm
conversation and buffalo
ribs are the preferred
sustenance. Cut from buffalo
fish that’s battered and
fried and served alongside
40-ounce beers, they are
artifacts of commerce and
community.

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