Old Cars Weekly News \& Marketplace - Auto Restoration Guide: Advice and How-to Projects for Your Collector Car

(singke) #1

The sewn line (a.k.a. dart) in the convertible top was then aligned
over the rear bow and stapled in place. Particular attention was paid to
making the sewn line and the rear bow mate up to ensure staple
coverage of the trim piece.
Now the top was pulled forward to the header bow. Both ends of the
cables — already installed in the convertible top — were attached to the
convertible top frame and the top was completely raised and locked. At
this point, Chase could sat back and surveyed the progress. If the top and
curtain were fit to her satisfaction, Chase would have moved on to the
next step. Given the complicated nature of this convertible top, Chase
tweaked the top to improve the fit after checking her work. Adjustments
began by unlatching the top from the header bow and propping it open
with a sturdy, soft object. The trim sticks were removed and the staples
were removed so the alignment line could be redrawn. Chase tweaked
the top about ^1 ⁄ 4 inch each time and checked the fit until it was exactly


where she wanted it. Once the top fit tightly and without wrinkles, the
trim stick was reinstalled and fastened into place and the top was re-
stapled.
The top was then pulled tight again and locked to the header bow and
lines were marked for gluing and stapling while the top was released
(this will give that “bounce a quarter off it” look). After the lines ware
marked, the top was opened three-quarters of the way and spray
adhesive was applied to the side glue flaps and the top header bow, then
glued into place, making sure the side glue flaps were tight to the frame
and the top was centered. Spray adhesive was also applied to the glue
flaps at the quarter windows and glued into place.

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