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SIX THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT PORK RIBS

ork ribs have it all: rich-tasting meat with plenty

of luscious fat, as well as bones to provide

structure and flavor, at a price that remains

relatively affordable—especially when compared

to beef. Ribs are capable of culinary sophistication,

yet primal—even joyful—enough to devour with

your bare hands.

2. When buying ribs, look for heavy racks with lots
   of meat. Avoid "shiners"—racks with so much meat
   trimmed off, the tops of the bones are exposed.
   Figure on 1 pound per person.


3. Ribs have a papery membrane on the inside
   (concave side). Do you absolutely need to remove
   it? No, but many believe it impedes the absorption
   of the spice and smoke flavors. To remove it,
   loosen it from a middle bone with an instant-read
   thermometer (wiggle the end of the probe under
   the membrane at the bone). Grab the membrane
   with a paper towel or dishcloth (it's slippery) and
   gently pull it off. If the membrane isn't obvious, it
   was probably removed by the butcher.


4. Pork ribs come in many cuts, shapes, and sizes.
   Baby back ribs: Cut from "high off the hog"
   (next to the backbone), these are tender, well-
   marbled, and quick and easy to cook. A full
   slab has 11 to 13 bones. Typical American baby
   backs tip the scales at 2 to 2/2 pounds; figure on
   1 to 2 servings per rack. Racks of Danish baby
   back ribs weigh about 1 pound each; figure on
   1 serving per rack.
   Spareribs: Cut from lower down on the ribcage,
   spareribs are meatier, fattier, and tougher than
   baby backs. Their big porky flavor makes the
   extended cooking time worth it. A typical rack
   weighs 3 to 4 pounds and serves 2 or 3.
   St. Louis ribs: A trimmed section of spareribs
   that looks and cooks like baby backs. The
   cartilaginous tips and a flap of meat have been
   removed to “square" the rack. A favorite cut
   of competition barbecuers, the St. Louis rack
   weighs in at 2 to 2V2 pounds.
   Country-style ribs: The "ribs" that look and cook
   like pork chops. Cut from the front of the hog
   at the top of the shoulder. May or may not have
   bones. A typical country-style rib weighs
   4 to 6 ounces; figure on 2 per person.
   Rib tips: The cartilaginous ends of spareribs.
   The sort of cut smoke masters tend to keep for
   themselves while serving spares and baby backs
   to their guests.

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4. Tight on space? To cook four racks of ribs in a
   water smoker, kettle grill, kamado-style smoker,
   or other smoker with limited space, use a rib rack,
   which enables you to cook the bones standing
   upright. Added advantage: This helps drain off
   the fat.

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5. Never boil ribs. I repeat: Never boil ribs. You
   can achieve the requisite tenderness by smoking.
   Smoke spareribs and St. Louis-cut ribs low and slow
   (at 225° to 250°F) to soften the tough connective
   tissue. You can smoke baby backs low or at a
   higher temperature (325°F). The latter gives you a
   crustier, meatier rib.

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6. If using barbecue sauce, don’t apply it too
   early. The sugars will burn before the meat is fully
   cooked. I brush it on the last 5 minutes and move
   the ribs directly over the fire, searing the sauce into
   the meat. Better yet. serve the sauce on the side.

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